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Big Rock Candy Mountain
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Childhood's End T,S 
Fields of Dreams Growing Wild T 
Petered Out T 
Rotten Teeth T 
Shock Treatment T 
Sweet Catastrophe T,S 

Fields of Dreams Growing Wild 

YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a R

   
Type:  Trad, 11 pitches, 1100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 24 British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Pete Gallagher, Pete Williams, 1979
Page Views: 7,456
Submitted By: Allen Hill on Apr 6, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (8)
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Paul Jakus leading the fourth pitch, 1984.

Description 

I'm suprised this is not in the database. This is the line on Big Rock. The Petes really did a nice job on this.

I have not done this route in 18 or 19 years so this may be a little sketchy. Maybe Peter can clear my description up.

Climb a crack/slab that is just on the otherside of the big boulder/block that Childhood's End starts at. It's 5.7.

Continue for two more pitches to the base of a leaning awkward crack. It's hard to describe, but let's just say it diagonals upward and right on the vertical wall on the side of the tongue that forms the outline of the route. This thing is rated 10ish, but it's hard and gnarly. I've seen a couple of very good climbers have a hard time with this thing. I'd call it 11 desperate. Tape up.

Belay at bolts. Above is the real business. Climb past five or six bolts on hard 5.11+ steep face. You pinch nubbins and sharp crystals to make progress. Belay at bolts. This pitch may be on the 5.12 side if you ask me.

Climb another steep and scary 5.11 pitch past four or five bolts. Belay at bolts.

Now you're in the Fields of Dreams slabs. Climb a 5.9 pitch with bolts, then a 5.8 slab with a couple of bolts, then a 5.7 with one bolt, then runout easy two or three pitches to the top.

Location 

Same rappel as Childhood's End.

Protection 

Friends #1 through #4. A big Camalot might come in handy on the evil, crack pitch (I'm guessing you all sense my opinion of the crack pitch). Some stoppers. Quick draws.
It's a scary route with some big runouts.
I'm guessing the old, quarter-inch bolts have been replaced.


Photos of Fields of Dreams Growing Wild Slideshow Add Photo
Kevin at the anchor of the 150' 10th pitch...he sewed it up by clipping both bolts....
Kevin at the anchor of the 150' 10th pitch...he se...
The offwidth...where the crack disappears is where the crux begins.
BETA PHOTO: The offwidth...where the crack disappears is where...
Cover of Climbing #76
Cover of Climbing #76

Comments on Fields of Dreams Growing Wild Add Comment
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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jun 25, 2011
By Christopher Jones
From: Denver, Colorado
Apr 6, 2007

I've read the story of the FA in Climb, but it would be cool to hear about it from Pete Gallagher.
By Allen Hill
From: FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Apr 23, 2007

Pete, thanks for putting these up. I really like the "It'll go" hand up photo on the crux.

I made my opinion on the crack pitch by rating your photo.

Black and white indeed. The joys of the old Colorado College darkroom.

See you at the wedding I hope and hopefully before hand
By Joshua Balke
From: Colorado Springs
Apr 24, 2007

Pete, there was a reference saying that the first few pitches had been destroyed by rock fall and you were in the process of re-establishing them. Any beta on the new route?
By Christopher Jones
From: Denver, Colorado
Apr 24, 2007

Awesome photos Pete! Thanks for posting them. I would love to climb this route someday.
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Apr 24, 2007

Pete, you are modest as ever. I do not remember any pitch on Fields that had more than 6 bolts. Compare this to Childhood's 11-bolt crux pitch, and add in some decomposing granite and an R rating could be in order.

BTW I replaced your homemade aluminum angle hangers and 1/4" star drives with ASCA stainless gear a few years ago. Several hangers and one bolt broke with the first tug on the funkness. I left the lower bolts alone (except for one anchor) as they were pretty bomber 1/2" self-drives. I assumed that they were a variation to your line as the climbing felt more like 5.10.

Proud effort and a proud line. Fields makes Childhood's seem like a clip up.
By John McNamee
Administrator
From: Littleton, CO
May 16, 2007

Thanks for adding this to the site. It's a great piece of history. Love the photos.
By Pete Williams
From: Dinosaur, Colorado
Apr 2, 2008

Great to see those old photos once again, Pete. FYI, my journal records the FA as June 30 and the FFA as July 5 (not June), in 1979. I remember that week in between as being interminable--all I could think about was going back and finishing the job.

I just added a photo of Paul Jakus leading the fourth pitch--I thought folks would appreciate a different perspective.

Kevin, did you replace all the bolts above this pitch, or just the ones with aluminum hangers? (Boy, were they ever a bad idea! Even worse than the nail drives.) If so, you've got my eternal gratitude. If the route still has original bolts on it, my vote would be to give it an X rating rather than an R.
By Kevin Stricker
From: Evergreen, CO
Apr 2, 2008

Pete...I replaced all of the bolts. The 1/4" star drives with aluminum angle stock hangers were classic! Too bad they broke so easily. I think I have one or two whole ones if you want me to send you one just email me your address.

Thank you for the topo, and for the route...it's one of the classic S. Platte test pieces and even with the modern hardware it is still bold and wild.
By Pete Williams
From: Dinosaur, Colorado
Apr 3, 2008

Kevin, Thanks for your comments on the route. I also appreciate the offer of the old bolt hanger, but I guess I'm not that nostalgic. I remember them well enough!

I recognize the labor and cost that went into upgrading the bolts. Thank you once again. I'll be making a donation to ASCA . . .
By kevin fox
From: parker
Jun 8, 2008

Did Fields of Dreams yesterday. Great route and definitely glad to see the new ASCA bolts (Thanks Kevin Stricker). Coming off of the offwidth pitch onto the face seemed like the crux. Crappy flaking rock. Amazing place. Not a soul around (climbing that is).
By Mike Willig
Jun 8, 2008

This route is quite the adventure...the climbing and scenery have an extremely remote feeling. Fantastic! Kevin, Thanks for rebolting...I'll also be donating to the ASCA. I can't imagine being at some of those belays with 1/4" bolts. The Petes definitely have nuts of steel. Sweet route.
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Jun 25, 2011

This is what climbing is all about. Love reading the stories and comments.

I hope to do this route in September if I can find a partner... sounds scary!