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Field's Chimney 

WI5 M6+

   
Type:  Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 4 pitches, 600', Grade III
Consensus: WI5 M6+ [details]
FA: Jack Roberts & Mike Bearzi
Season: fall, winter
Page Views: 4,435
Submitted By: Greg Sievers on Oct 24, 2006

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Greg Sievers attempting to lead the second pitch o...

Description 

This chimney system is right of the Diagonal Wall. It forms occasionally.

P1- Climb an obvious pitch of WI-4, past a narrow section and belay on the right at a nut&pin station.
P2 - (standard) Climb directly up a narrow, steep, thin section and over a difficult overhang.(M6).
Variation (left): Move up and left into a parallel chimney, and stick the thin flow in the dihedral (M5+). Belay on the right of an alcove at a 2 pin station.
P3 - (standard) Go straight up thin ice and cracks and belay at the base of a ramp angling up and left (M6+).
P3 - Variation (left) Scramble up above the belay to the left and climb awkward blocks past a pin (M6), then continue up the gully and left. Step right and mount a bulging roof (M6). Continue on easier ground for 30' and build a station. sling a rounded horn and rap the route, or climb the easy ramp to Broadway.
P4 - (standard) Follow the ramp left to Broadway.


Location 

The first gully right of Diagonal Wall and 100' left of Crack of Delight rappels.


Protection 

Full single rock rack plus 4-6 stubby ice screws, some pins.



Photos of Field's Chimney Slideshow Add Photo
Rappeling the second pitch of the left chimney variation during heavy spindrift.
Rappeling the second pitch of the left chimney var...
Sievers having more success on the left chimney variation of Pitch 2.
Sievers having more success on the left chimney va...
Comments on Field's Chimney Add Comment
Show which comments
By alpinglow
From: city, state
Aug 22, 2007

Fun climbing everytime I've been up there.

By Rick Casey
From: Lafayette, Colorado
Feb 16, 2008

I was at a CMC slideshow recently where Jack Roberts (author of the Colorado Ice guidebook) described this as one of his favorite easy mixed routes, when it's in. Will have to try it sometime....

By Ross
From: Pinewood Springs
Oct 12, 2012

Two icons Jack Roberts & Mike Bearzi, did they do other routes together?

By Kevin Gillest
From: Arvada, CO
Nov 5, 2012
rating: WI5 M6+

Climbed Fields Nov. 4, 2012:

Pitch 1, WI3 M4, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 1, WI3 M4, Fields Chimney.

Pitch 1, WI3 M4 180 feet, fixed belay (left side) 2 pins and nut equalized by 5mm cord.

Pitch 2, WI5+ M6, 110 feet, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 2, WI5+ M6, 110 feet, Fields Chimney.

Pitch 2, WI5+ M6, 110 feet, fixed belay (center) old webbing behind block.

Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, Fields Chimney.

Pitch 3, leaving the belay stance.

Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, Fields Chimney.

Pitch 3, We climbed a variation out of chimney exiting upper left side.

Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, Fields Chimney.
Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, Fields Chimney.

Pitch 3, WI4 M6+, 180 feet, follow crack out of left side of chimney, thin slab for 90 feet, new belay with 2 pins/6mm cord and screw gate.