|Upper Bulge Routes
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This amazingly blank and exposed section of rock heads roughly straight up from the anchor where Crucifix and The Bat finish. Climb roughly 50-60' of some intensely tenuous friction to easier ground above. The improbable climbing is very well protected except one move near the 2nd to the last bolt. A couple of the bolts are older, or have bizarre hangers, but will probably do the job. This route was originally graded 11b in the Tahquitz guidebook, but I've heard rumor others think it's harder as well...
Approach via the Bat Crack and Crucifix or The Bat. Finish by moving left toward The Vampire. Walk off via the friction descent.
Roughly 8 bolts, 1-3" gear for an anchor in the arch above.
|By Jon Clark|
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oct 18, 2012
I approached this pitch a year or so ago via The Crucifix (11b/c) and thought it was WAY harder than that route. I'd vote for the stiff side of 11d.
|By Josh Higgins|
Sep 19, 2013
This thing requires time, creativity, and commitment if you aren't a slab master. Most people I know bail and rappel leaving a carabiner, including myself the first time. I've since redpointed it, but it took honest to go WORK! It's a fun learning experience, and unique even for Tahquitz.
The guidebook said 11b, and I didn't want to uprate this thing by more than 2 letter grades, but after redpointing it and talking to many friends who are good/competent climbers who have been completely shutdown on this thing I think it's in the easy 5.12 range. It's completely safe though, so go give it a try!