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 ADVANCED
Upper Bulge Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Crucifix, The T 
Field of Dreams T 
Flakes, The T 
Pharaoh, The T 
Price of Fear, The T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Step, The T 
Super Pooper T 
Vampire, The T 

Field of Dreams 

YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11d French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bob Gaines & Charlie Peterson, August 1996
Page Views: 552
Submitted By: Josh Higgins on Sep 2, 2012

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Description 

This amazingly blank and exposed section of rock heads roughly straight up from the anchor where Crucifix and The Bat finish. Climb roughly 50-60' of some intensely tenuous friction to easier ground above. The improbable climbing is very well protected except one move near the 2nd to the last bolt. A couple of the bolts are older, or have bizarre hangers, but will probably do the job. This route was originally graded 11b in the Tahquitz guidebook, but I've heard rumor others think it's harder as well...

Location 

Approach via the Bat Crack and Crucifix or The Bat. Finish by moving left toward The Vampire. Walk off via the friction descent.

Protection 

Roughly 8 bolts, 1-3" gear for an anchor in the arch above.


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By Jon Clark
From: Philadelphia, PA
Oct 18, 2012

I approached this pitch a year or so ago via The Crucifix (11b/c) and thought it was WAY harder than that route. I'd vote for the stiff side of 11d.
By Josh Higgins
Sep 19, 2013

This thing requires time, creativity, and commitment if you aren't a slab master. Most people I know bail and rappel leaving a carabiner, including myself the first time. I've since redpointed it, but it took honest to go WORK! It's a fun learning experience, and unique even for Tahquitz.

The guidebook said 11b, and I didn't want to uprate this thing by more than 2 letter grades, but after redpointing it and talking to many friends who are good/competent climbers who have been completely shutdown on this thing I think it's in the easy 5.12 range. It's completely safe though, so go give it a try!