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> Joshua Tree NP
> Quail Springs Area
> White Cliffs of…
> White Cliffs of Dover…
Field and Stream
5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British
Avg: 3.7 from 80
votes
Routes in White Cliffs of Dover - Left Side
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Ace of Spades T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Card Chimney T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Clucker, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Conqueror Worm TR 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Digital Watch T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Field and Stream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Good Housekeeping T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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High Anxiety T 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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High Tension T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Human Be-In T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Jack of Hearts T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Make or Break Flake T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Nolina Crack T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Perennial Favorite T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Popular Mechanics T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Quest for Fire T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Scientific Americans T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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Sen Blen T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Sharon Stone T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Solar Flare T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Stone Hinge T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Twin Cracks T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Westways TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Wilted Flower Children T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
| Unsorted Routes: | |
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| Type: | Trad, 115 ft (35 m) |
| FA: | Tony Sartin and Bob Gaines, September 2012 |
| Page Views: | 4,595 total · 33/month |
| Shared By: | Bob Gaines on Sep 27, 2012 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This link-up connects the start of Good Housekeeping to Stone Hinge, offering a 35 meter pitch of varied climbing on excellent rock. One of the longest and best pitches on the White Cliffs.
Begin with the start of Good Housekeeping. After the first bolt (5.10c) continue up the vertical crack to a ledge. Step left onto an arete and climb a slabby ramp past 5 new bolts (5.10-), then move right and jam a short but sweet finger crack (now on Stone Hinge). Move left at a horizontal fingertip crack to a ledge, then step right and lieback a tricky arete past 2 bolts (5.10c), moving right after the second bolt up to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
Begin with the start of Good Housekeeping. After the first bolt (5.10c) continue up the vertical crack to a ledge. Step left onto an arete and climb a slabby ramp past 5 new bolts (5.10-), then move right and jam a short but sweet finger crack (now on Stone Hinge). Move left at a horizontal fingertip crack to a ledge, then step right and lieback a tricky arete past 2 bolts (5.10c), moving right after the second bolt up to a ledge with a 2-bolt anchor.
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