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 ADVANCED
Wine and Roses
Select Route:
Cashew Corner T,TR 
Cheyenne T 
Chief, The T 
Fiddler on the roof T 
Heroes and Zeroes T,S 
Pale Face T 
Power Behind the Throne T 
Terminator Goes to the Prom T 
Thanatos T 
What, No Rope? T 
Wine and Roses T 

Fiddler on the roof 

YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a

   
Type:  Trad, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13d French: 8b Ewbanks: 31 UIAA: X ZA: 32 British: E8 7a [details]
FA: Steve Petro
Page Views: 3,801
Submitted By: Johnny K. on Oct 10, 2011

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Steve Petro Credit: Eric Perlman

Description 

Hardman finger roof crack.Put up by certified badass Steve Petro.

Watch Masters of the Stone 4 for a segment of Steve Petro cranking this amazing roof sequence.

Maybe only repeated a handful of times?

Location 

50 feet to the west of Wine and Roses

Rap 40 feet to a two bolt belay below the roof and slightly to the left.

Protection 

(Standard small rack)
1 Draw
#0-2 TCU range for the roof
#1 Camalot range for after the lip


Comments on Fiddler on the roof Add Comment
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By camhead
From: Vandalia, Appalachia
Dec 20, 2011

I'm pretty sure that Honnold has repeated it as well.
By Justin Edl
Aug 13, 2012

Yes Camhead, Honnold did this, and apparently quite quickly at that. Peewee did the second ascent, and some other folks including myself have done it as well. Of note is the fact that many if not most of the repeats (including mine) were done using a new sequence that involves dynoing from a thin finger lock that is a little farther out from the undercling lock that Petro uses to hit the jug at the horizontal near the lip in that clip on Masters of Stone. The new beta makes the route a bit easier IMO, and justifies a downgrade for this route (I would put it somewhere around 13b).

That being said, big respect to anyone who does this one with Petros original beta. That was was done in 1987 in Fires, and I find that very impressive. Any climbing historians know how that stacks up in the grand scheme of things? I would be curious who else was putting up bouldery routes (or any other type of route) of that calibur around that same time period. I would imagine that this has to be one of the standout lines from that era of any style regarding pure difficulty. Hats off to Steve Petro on this one. A truly inspiring accomplishment.
By Justin Edl
Aug 17, 2012

Apparently not the hardest climb in the world at it's time, though right on the cutting edge and curiously unmentioned here: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/History_...

Personally I find this one VERY impressive, especially after seeing that list. Count in the fact that Steve did this in relative isolation and its just that much more impressive. I also remember hearing about how he at first rated this one 13a, then repeated every other hard crack he could get his hands on, and afterward reflecting that the real grade for Fiddler was 13d. Just sick.
By Dave Budge
From: South Slope of the Hindu Kush
Nov 13, 2012

After seeing Nitro tonight and joking about his former mustache-power, I went looking on Google for the iconic picture of him on FOTR. Can't find it. If anyone has more pics of Nitro on that rig, post 'em up!

P.S. I'm pretty sure it's impossible without a Wyoming mustache, so I'm inclined not to believe Honnold sent it ;).