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Fiddlehead

Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
A Shadow Sickness 
Castles Made of Sand 
Chains of Love 
East Face/Fiddle Head 
Fertile Crescent. 
Irish Spring 
Leprechaun Promenade 
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint 
Men Only 
Surfing Samarsa 
Unknown Dihedral 

Fiddlehead 


Photos: Recent | Best | Popular
Elevation: 7,250'
Location: 39.9659, -105.2891 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 16,348
Administrators: Ben Mottinger, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monomaniac, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Dec 31, 1969
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BETA PHOTO: From The Slab, 4/11/02.
  • Subject to Seasonal Closures MORE INFO >>>
  • Climbing areas reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

  • Description 

    Fiddle Head is on the north side of Fern Canyon, east of Pellaea and Onoclea. This rock holds a fine east face route, and a couple steeper and harder routes on its west face. Fern Canyon is heavily affected by bird closures.


    Getting There 

    From the Mesa Trail, hike into Fern Canyon and past the Goose Eggs which loom above the trail to the north. Fiddle Head is the southernmost rock in the next stratum of rock to the west, but it can be difficult to pick out because the southern end of it is broken and overgrown. To access the west face routes, continue as for Pellaea and Onoclea. To access the east face, bushwack north off the trail well before reaching the prominent Superfresh boulder, and weave through fallen logs and boulders. The East Face route begins just to the right of a prominent left facing dihedral.


    11 Total Routes


    ['4 Stars',2],['3 Stars',4],['2 Stars',4],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',1]
    ['<=5.6',1],['5.7',0],['5.8',1],['5.9',2],['5.10',4],['5.11',1],['5.12',2],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

    The Classics

    Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fiddlehead:
    Irish Spring   5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a PG13     Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   
    Leprechaun Promenade   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- E2 5b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   
    A Shadow Sickness   5.10 6b 20 VII- E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   
    Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b     Trad, 2 pitches   
    Castles Made of Sand   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a     Sport, 1 pitch   
    Chains of Love   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ E5 6b     Trad, Sport, 2 pitches   
    Browse More Classics in Fiddlehead

    Featured Route For Fiddlehead
    Anchors on Castles Made of Sand that could use replacing.  The wires are actually glued behind the washer making them a touch better.

    Castles Made of Sand 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a  CO : Flatirons : ... : Fiddlehead
    Castles is the amazing looking flat face/arete first seen when one walks toward the lower East Ridge from the main trail...Crank up the dihedral and balance through some wild, tweaky moves to the arete and a tough third clip. Do a powerful move off the arete, back onto the face and set up for yet another tricky move past flakes to the anchor. Very fine!There are hard, yet elegant moves at and past each bolt with potential for some hairy falls! At least one good climber has been hurt on this one....[more]   Browse More Classics in CO

    Photos of Fiddlehead Slideshow Add Photo
    Climbers Kat and Ryan on Lepracaun Promenade (10b), on the summit of the Fiddle Head in Fern Canyon.
    Climbers Kat and Ryan on Lepracaun Promenade (10b)...
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