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Fiddle Head is on the north side of Fern Canyon, east of Pellaea and Onoclea. This rock holds a fine east face route, and a couple steeper and harder routes on its west face. Fern Canyon is heavily affected by bird closures.
From the Mesa Trail, hike into Fern Canyon and past the Goose Eggs which loom above the trail to the north. Fiddle Head is the southernmost rock in the next stratum of rock to the west, but it can be difficult to pick out because the southern end of it is broken and overgrown. To access the west face routes, continue as for Pellaea and Onoclea. To access the east face, bushwack north off the trail well before reaching the prominent Superfresh boulder, and weave through fallen logs and boulders. The East Face route begins just to the right of a prominent left facing dihedral.
11 Total Routes
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fiddlehead:
Irish Spring 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13 Trad, Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Leprechaun Promenade 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'
A Shadow Sickness 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Lucky Charms aka Rip This Joint 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Trad, 2 pitches
Castles Made of Sand 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport, 1 pitch
Chains of Love 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Featured Route For Fiddlehead
Castles Made of Sand 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a CO : Flatirons : ... : Fiddlehead
Castles is the amazing looking flat face/arete first seen when one walks toward the lower East Ridge from the main trail...Crank up the dihedral and balance through some wild, tweaky moves to the arete and a tough third clip. Do a powerful move off the arete, back onto the face and set up for yet another tricky move past flakes to the anchor. Very fine!There are hard, yet elegant moves at and past each bolt with potential for some hairy falls! At least one good climber has been hurt on this one....[more] Browse More Classics in CO
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