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s. The Golden Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Barndance, a.k.a. Crankmaster T's Arete TR 
Chris' Cringe or Hatti's Horror TR 
Completely Francois TR 
Fickle Fingers T,TR 
Golden Dream, The T,TR 
Jam On! T,TR 
Sinister Urge (formerly SLAM Dance) T 
Slot Machine T,TR 
Stinky Americans T,TR 
Super Skink TR 
Time for Therapy T,TR 

Fickle Fingers 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

Type:  Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b [details]
Page Views: 4,148
Submitted By: Taino on Dec 20, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (37)
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Face/finger-crack climb followed by double roof. Two cruxes - mid-height, and very long reach through roofs.


Follow discontinuous fingercrack 10 feet left of Golden Dream, through roofs. Easy walk-off.


PG pro, small stuff. Double-bolted anchor at the top.

Photos of Fickle Fingers Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Move
Rock Climbing Photo: Pull
Rock Climbing Photo: Reach
Rock Climbing Photo: Boost
Rock Climbing Photo: Jugg
Rock Climbing Photo: Fickle Fingers
BETA PHOTO: Fickle Fingers

Comments on Fickle Fingers Add Comment
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By Jeffrey Gagliano
From: Pennsburg, PA
May 3, 2010

Got the onsight lead on 5/2/2010. Excellent nut placements the whole way, though at the real crux at the end of the crack, the #3 stopper is very difficult to get placed well.
By kenr
Dec 4, 2012

It's a typical Gunks finger crack: Don't expect to get many good jams, be prepared to use it some other way.

Indeed the first roof is very reachy. If much less than 5ft9in, be prepared to make a serious dynamic lunge for it.

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