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This is a tower east of Kane Springs Blvd about .5 miles south of Moonflower Canyon. The north face is roughly 130 feet while the south face drops to over 300 feet down. It is visible from Potash road past the popular climbing areas.
The Fickle Finger is accessed via Kane Springs Blvd. Park on the road near a private driveway exactly 0.5 miles past (south) Moonflower Canyon and campground. Hike up the driveway and immediately cut to the powerlines. Follow the powerlines to the second major canyon on your left (east). Hike up this drainage on the righthand side. You will eventually come to some mandatory 4th class up a ridge/ buttress. Once the climbing eases there are two hangerless bolts which are utilized for the rappel decent. Scramble past he bolts and the tower will come into view on the right. Moonwalker climbs the blank North face.
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Moonwalker 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+ UT : Moab Area : ... : Fickle Finger of Fate
Moonwalker climbs the crack system to the large shelf then up the face to the left hand ridge to the summit. Pitch 1- climb the flaring crack 40 feet to the shelf. Belay on natural gear. 5.9Pitch 2- climb around 6 1/4 studs to a 3/8 bolt with hanger. Two more pins lead to more studs and free climbing moves onto the ridge. Free climbing is protected by 1 bolts and about 5 more studs. Then traverse around the right of the summit block and mantle to the top. Most studs had washers and machine nuts ...[more] Browse More Classics in UT
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