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 ADVANCED
Lower Peanuts
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Air Guitar T,S 
Aspenleaf Dihedral T 
Black Pearl S 
Blows Against the Empire T 
Chaucer T 
Cornered, straight up variation T 
Dihedral T 
Do or Do Not T 
Double Cracks T 
Easy Off T 
Empire Strikes Back, The T,TR 
Evangelium Vitae (The Gospel of Life) T,TR 
Faith, Hope and Charity T 
Fickle Finger of Eight T 
Forbidden Planet S 
Home Free T 
Jackson Browne (aka Fluid Power) T 
Just Another Girl's Climb T,S 
Let's Jet S 
Narrow Gate, The T 
No Visible Means of Support T 
Nova T,TR 
Off The Cuff T 
Peanuts T 
Pretender, The T 
Right Escape T 
Sacred and the Profane, The S 
Scorpions T 
Shield, The T 
Sickle T 
Star Track T,TR 
Strolling T 
Tracer T 
Trouble And Strife T,TR 
West Crack (aka Star Wars) T 
Whiskey Gala T 
Wired T 
X-Wing T,TR 
Young, Blonde, and Easy T 
Your Basic Lieback T 

Fickle Finger of Eight 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7+ French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Carl Lemke, solo, 1981
Page Views: 452
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 4, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Climbing reopened after flood MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is yet another obscure little route....

If you seek this climb, find it on the far ight side of Lower Peanuts. It is right of Star Wars and just right of Home Free. It is squeezed between Off the Cuff and Sickle. It has a pleasant if brief, 5.8, crux dihedral.

This climb starts up in a short, thinnish, left-facing dihedral just right of a wide cleft (10") called Off the Cuff. Small gear, a bit of stemming, and liebacking and you're through the crux. You can continue upward in a chimney with an interesting but easy roof move. Find a belay. Exit easily right to 3rd class terrain & descend. There is lichen and a bit of loose rock here.

I found these notes on this route as I was reminiscing about climbing with a young man, Ryan, a son of a good friend of mine, who is no longer with us in body. It was his first outdoor climbing day.

Protection 

Basic Eldo rack.


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By Tombo
From: Boulder
May 8, 2011
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

This pitch would be much more pleasant if it were climbed more. As is, it is currently pretty lichen covered.
By Ben Burnett
From: Colorado
Aug 8, 2012
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

The first 30 ft are clean and beautiful, and an easy downclimb can be done from the ledge. It'd be classic if it were on a long route.