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Rob Springer (w/ suspiciously light rack) sizes up...
|RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>|
Fully "mega" and a candidate for the hardest 5.10 anywhere (that's not the Crack of Fear) this pitch has four different cruxes any one of which would probably justify the 10+ rating given in Bloom's guide and preserved here.
This climb starts just left of No Beggin' at a right facing corner/crack which has a section of fists through a roof about 20' above the deck. Climb easily up to the start of the roof then pull it (crux 1) and gain a welcome stance. About 30' of easier thin hands climbing in a corner leads to a ledge where there used to be bolts. It probably makes sense to break the climb into two pitches and belay here because crux two is just above the ledge and decking is a possibility. Crux 2 features an overhanging thin hands or lieback corner on suspect rock an edge of which broke on me as I was liebacking it. The corner is followed by airy face/crack climbing on more dubious rock leading to a semi-stance below a roof. Figure out a way around the roof (crux 3). Another stretch of easier climbing leads to a final 15' of thin fingers in an oblique corner (crux 4) and the anchors.
Four stars worth of climbing but I subtracted a star each for the bad rock and distracting ledge around crux two.
The full grab bag from .5 Friends to 4 Camalot. Crux 1 takes 3 & 4 Camalots, C2 1 Camalots, C3 .5 and .75 Camalots, C4 yellow Aliens. Take some draws and slings if you plan on doing it in one pitch.