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The bottom half is a less than vertical corner (~5.9) crack with rests crack that widens from 3 Friends to 4 Friends. The upper half of the pitch overhangs and is more consistent in size, 3.5 Friends or blue Camalots.
A pretty great line, but docked a star because I decided midway through the crux upper section that I really don't like fist jamming.
On the far right side of Fin, about 50 meters past Virgin Voyage. Like most corners on Fin, this faces right; it goes into the shade around noon in the spring.
The first 30' feet or so is pretty easy and can be protected w/ 3 Friends or gold Camalots. After that it's a question of how many 3.5 F / Blue C you need/want to protect 100', 50' or so of which are continuously overhanging; I believe I had seven but I also had one #4 Friend and three #3.5 Camalots. I would have preferred to have more of the 3F / Blue C sizes. I'm usually good at walking larger pieces but it found doing so difficult on the overhanging section of this climb.
The anchor is not so great: one modern bolt w/ some slings through it and a vintage Hong bolt with a cheesy home made hanger and a single sling girth hitched through the sharp-edged eye.
Our 70M rope was just barely long enough to rap with about 5' of down climbing.
From: Boulder, CO
Oct 21, 2008
SICK ROUTE. That roof is so damn hard. Blue camalot up to rattly fists through 50 feet of overhang. Strenuous to say the least.
By Matt Pesce
From: moab, ut.
Jun 22, 2013
By Brandon Gottung
From: Moab, UT
6 days ago
Then what is the SH bolt about. Probably a Hong route.