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YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a PG13

Type:  Trad, 115'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11+ French: 7a Ewbanks: 24 UIAA: VIII British: E4 6a [details]
FA: Dan Hughes & Derek Bomholt
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 195
Submitted By: Highlander on Apr 17, 2013
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Start in a corner that starts as hands and quickly narrows down to a seam. Carefully make your way up to the roof using some face holds and flakes, don't fall you have been climbing up a large flake that may or may not hold gear (may add a bolt at some point). Climb out the huge roof starting with good hands that eventually widens to off width. Don't want to give away the finish, lead bolt protects the exit moves out the roof and keeps your gear from being sucked up the crack.


Located to the right of Puzzle Factory & Prince Humperdinky, and just right of the fresh rockfall. Bolted Anchors, 70m rope should just make it down.


1 each smallest smallest cams up to #5 camalot, (3) #2 camalots, (3) #3 camalots; small nuts useful.

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By Devin Fin
Apr 18, 2013

this route has been up for some time i climbed it last spring the upper part is like a heavy metal Lay away plan really crisp! the bolt at the lip saves yer cam's from getting sucked up in to the crack ... great climb.. the start is spooky an thin .. but if you can make it past this. it is one of the funnest roof's around.. a bolt down low would be great. thanks for putting up this route. my 70m was maxed?

By Highlander
From: Ouray, CO
Apr 20, 2013

Glad you liked it, could not remember if we had a 60m or 70m rope that day, I think we put it up 3 years ago. I will change the route description to needing a 70m rope.