Climber on the relatively steep start of "Pet...
The Feudal Wall is one of the larger formations in Indian Cove that offers a number of lengthy, quality moderates (mostly cracks) as well as quick and easy access. The wall is split at mid-height by a large ledge system allowing for topropes to be easily set on the lower half, as well as providing a convenient way down which makes the area quite popular with large crowds of topropers. Many climbs continue to the top of the formation but most suffer from some degree of loose and/or grainy rock (exceptions do exist).
Moving from the climbers left to right, some fun climbs include the three Duchess climbs (Duchess Left
, 5.4; Duchess
, 5.6; and Duchess Right
, 5.7) -- especially the right, which is a classic 5.7 off-width. The Castrum
(5.10a) is a classic thin crack/tips layback. The start of Crown Jewels
is (in my opinion) a bit of a sandbag at 5.7, but this is one of the climbs that remains fun all the way to the top. Over at the right end of the formation, The Mikado
(5.6) is a fun route, and don't miss the chance to hang a top-rope and take a shot at the California Crack (5.11a). One notable climb on the upper level, near the left-hand side of the formation is La Reina
(5.9) a beautiful right-facing dihedral with a splitter handcrack in the back.
Finally, the Feudal Wall offers an afternoon's worth of fourth and easy fifth scrambling/free-soloing which is excellent for keeping the pulse rate up or keeping the friends occupied while you get some more climbing in.
The Feudal Wall is the next to last wall you pass (it's just before the Short Wall) as you follow the Indian Cove Road to the southeast through the family campsites and out towards Rattlesnake Canyon. Parking is available right at the base of the rock, so the approach is minimal, at the most.
Weather station 6.2 miles from here
39 Total Routes
['4 Stars',0],['3 Stars',2],['2 Stars',18],['1 Star',19],['Bomb',0]
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Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Feudal Wall:
Featured Route For Feudal Wall
Coco-Loco 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b CA
: Joshua Tree National Park
: ... : Feudal Wall (Left Side)
Climb an easy but interesting thin crack/corner to a horizontal crack (medium pro here) where a traverse slightly right gives access to the upper portion of the route - a seam to face with a bolt. The crux moves past the bolt are balancy and tenuous and involve edges, sidepulls and overall insecurity - think classic Josh style climbing. Large cams are handy for an anchor in a grainy, flared horizontal crack 10' above the ledge where this finishes. A fun climb that while seldom done is worthy of ...[more] Browse More Classics in CA
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BETA PHOTO: Short Wall and Feudal Wall.
Unknown route at Feudal Wall. Photo by Blitzo.