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Diagonal up and left through some blocks to a big ledge below the obvious right arching flake. The first piece of gear goes on a vertical crack below this big ledge (below your feet).
Make a delicate move to an intermediate stance at the start of the flake, place some mediocre gear (#2 Ball Nut, #3 WC Stone). Step up to a good undercling and place a #0 Metolius Master Cam (or similar) back left before fully embarking into the crux. There is risk of serious injury if one were to fall before placing this micro cam.
Committing moves through the flake get you to the horizontal with an angle pin (along with grass and dirt...); back the pin up with a small can. From here reach for the right facing corner above and to the right (lousy feet). The crux is only over when you're standing after completing this sequence.
Step left and climb the face straight up until you're a few feet below a short left-facing corner; from here angle up and right to the top of the Baby P1 and its bolt anchor.
Start slightly left of Baby.
Belay and rap down from two bolt anchor at the top of Baby P1, or finish by the upper pitch of any nearby route - Baby, Easy Overhang, Son of Easy O - and walk off via the Uberfall Descent.
Small wires, #2 Ball Nut and #0 Metolius Master Cam for the flake. Standard Gunks rack for the rest.
Jun 28, 2010
Thanks for the write-up, Rui. It sounds like (and from when I've seen it climbed) you'd perhaps say PG-13? Or just really healthy PG?
|By Rui Ferreira|
From: St Ismier (Grenoble), France
Jun 28, 2010
I found it R for protection. You basically have to make a relatively unprotected 5.7/5.8 face move just to get lousy intermediate gear in the flake, before making another move (similar in difficulty) to get the micro cam in the seam. At this point the leader is a good ten to twelve feet above the only gear (#2 Camalot) which is six feet to the left and below the big ledge. Any fall during this sequence will have leader first hitting the ledge and continuing on down. The Camalot should prevent the leader from hitting the ground by several feet, but it would be ugly...