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South Wall
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Donkey Show S 
Festus S 
Glass Eye S 
Live Wire S 
May Cause Dizziness S 
May Cause Drowsiness S 
Pain Killer S 
Smoke Signal S 


YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
Page Views: 845
Submitted By: Aerili on Oct 19, 2011

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A very sustained 10a (with the exception of a long runout on low 5th class terrain before the final two bolts), Festus grabs your attention with many cool moves and various techniques required as soon as you clip the first bolt.

Very short people may find the crux to be moving off the second bolt into the right-facing dihedral (very reachy for those at the lower end of 5'). For me, the crux was the steep and slightly runout ground between bolts 3 to 4, a mini-traverse that thankfully offers great hand jams to mitigate the building pump. (It would be possible to throw in a cam here.)

A final 10a crux occurs at the last bolt before the anchors as well. I felt there were several sections on this route where falling would have been an unpleasant experience, but this is one of the better routes I have done at Big Chief.


6 bolts + Mussy hook anchors

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By Sergey Shelukhin
From: San Francisco, California
Aug 17, 2015
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

I found this route MUCH harder than either Mohawk, Sweating Bullets, or Too Light To Wait, even though I'm 6'3". Dunno why. My climbing partner also had lots of trouble on TR that they don't normally have on 10a.
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