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Festoon 

YDS: 5.10a/b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 19 British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Steve Garvey & Jim Sweeney 1987, Direct finish Evan Skine 1999
Page Views: 519
Submitted By: Richard Shore on Jul 1, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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Adrienne Kentner climbing Festooned 5.9+

Description 

An excellent single-pitch route which requires skill at placing small fiddly gear and a cool head to succeed. Slightly uphill and left of Ruby Shoes (5.7) is this attractive thin flake/seam with an obvious "tongue" sticking out at the 20' mark. Climb up the lieback flake as it seams out and becomes a right-facing corner at the top. Two bolts protect the upper corner and topout onto a mossy vegetated ledge. Rappel from two nice ASCA ring bolts towards the left end of the ledge.

Some additional notes: the original FA party climbed up the flake and then traversed off left below the (now bolted) corner. The bolted direct finish was added at a later date, and upped the grade from 5.9 to 5.10-. The direct finish is often referred to "Grit Yer Teeth"

Protection 

Thin. A set of TCUs from micro to 1", many small nuts (offset brass wouldn't go unused), 2 bolts, 2 bolt rap anchor.


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By Dommelhiemer
Administrator
From: Anchorage
Jul 1, 2014
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Small gear is nice on this, but you can climb it on mostly medium gear, a couple smaller stoppers are nice, but you don't need to have brassies.
By Mat Brunton
Jun 2, 2015
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

Great route. Protected mostly with small BD X4 cams and stoppers. Really nice reaching that first bolt. Second bolt a relief for the somewhat dirty and not-so-positive holds topping out on to large belay ledge. While this route may stay consistently more difficult, I don't remember any crux on it as difficult as those found on nearby 5.9s such as Orangutan Overhang and Checkered Dog on the Monolith, or As good as it gets on Jungle Gym.
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