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L'Arco de i Guaitechi S 
Fessura Oliva S 

Fessura Oliva 

YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10b French: 6a+ Ewbanks: 19 UIAA: VII- British: E2 5b [details]
FA: Oliva 1979
Season: hot in the sun late fall, winter, early spring
Page Views: 93
Submitted By: Brian in SLC on Apr 6, 2012

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Second pitch offwidth of Fessura Oliva

Description 

A bit tired of crimps and finger pockets? This route will cure ya!

P1: A stout start, slightly overhanging but with an amazing and secure hand jam or two. Follow the left-curing crack with initially poor feet, a few awkward, uncomfy moves, then face climb up to the grove of trees for some rest in the shade.

P2: Yeah, its wide. Bolts on the face to the right. Can be liebacked a bit, insecurely. Offwidth technique comes in handy. Fairly steep and strenuous.

When the crack rolls over a bit, step right and use thin crack and face features to finish pitch.

Unique, physical and fun. A nice break from the standard pocket pulls!


Location 

Located on the right side of the orange scoop to the right of the crag i.d. plaque.

Obvious left curving steep crack start, to tree'd belay station. Second pitch wide crack hard to discern from below.


Protection 

Set of quickdraws and a couple of slings for the trees.



Photos of Fessura Oliva Slideshow Add Photo
Escape from the wide crack on Fessura Oliva
Escape from the wide crack on Fessura Oliva
Steep start of Fessura Oliva's first pitch
Steep start of Fessura Oliva's first pitch
Get in that thing...bonus points for a no-shirt ascent of Fessura Oliva
Get in that thing...bonus points for a no-shirt as...
Climbing up to the first pitch belay station on Fessura Oliva
Climbing up to the first pitch belay station on Fe...
Rappelling Fessura Oliva's first pitch showoing route location and start of route on the right side of the shallow orange scoop.
Rappelling Fessura Oliva's first pitch showoing ro...
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