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Fern Clyffe State Park is located a short drive from Interstate 57, about 1 mile south of Goreville Illinois. The park has seen technical climbing since the 1960's. Throughout its climbing history, routes have been established park wide. However, since the mid 1980's, park officials have changed their management plans. While this has greatly limited the amount of legal climbing, what still remains is comprised of some of the finest stone the park has to offer.
Ferne Clyffe State Park can be reached from I-57 and I-24. The park is well signed from both interstate highways. If traveling south on I-57, take the Goreville exit, #40, approximately 12 miles south of Marion, IL At exit #40 turn left (east), go 5 miles to IL Rt. 37. Turn right (south) on Rt. 37, you will see the park entrance 1 mile south of Goreville. Traveling north on I-57, take exit #40, Goreville, turn right (east), go 5 miles to IL. Rt. 37, turn right (south) on IL Rt. 37 and you will see the park entrance 1 mile south of Goreville. If traveling on I-24, take exit #7 (Goreville), turn west and go 2 miles to IL Rt. 37, turn left (south) and go ½ mile to park entrance.
Currently, Fern Clyffe State Park has two guidebooks available for purchase to guide your climbing experience. The first being Eric Ulner's book Vertical Heartland which accurately shows routes and their descriptions. The second guide for Fern is Matt Bliss's book Sandstone Warrior. In Matt's guide he covers all the great bouldering that the park has to offer along with beautifully pictured pages. Both guides can be picked up at Shawnee Trails in Carbondale Illinois.
7 Total Routes
Featured Route For Ferne Clyffe State Park
Work up right facing dihedral around to right-face, up through split in rock to large sloping ledge. move into large water groove/chimney for about 10 ft of crux climbing to slight overhang and "cedar" treeat top....[more] Browse More Classics in IL