This is a new old crag. One route was done in 1996 and then over the last year or two (2007 and 2008), Peter Winter cleaned it up and put in about 20 bolted routes. The climbs are primarily 5.11 and 5.12, although there are two at 5.10b and one 5.9.
The wall is taller and steeper than many sport areas around squamish and has good, though-provoking climbing. It faces east and has sun until about noon depending on the season. The base can be buggy, bring bug juice.
Here's a link to a topo that also includes directions.
Peter Winter has requested that TRs be done from draws rather than through the chains; good advice in any area.
While this crag is in the same vicinity as The Sanctuary, the approach is different.
Take the Mamquam Forest Service Road (the one you take for The Apron parking lot), drive past Slhanay (The Squaw) and stay left at the forks until you can park in a clearing just left of a gate (Epcor).
Walk along the trail at the end of the clearing, past concrete barriers, until you can head left onto the Farther Side mountain bike trail. Follow the trail, staying left, until it has turned to head east and is fairly level. In a few minutes the crag should then be just barely visible from the trail, and flagging tape helps locate the very rough trail to the base. You'll probably bushwack the first time. Total time from parking should be 10 to 15 minutes.
27 Total Routes
['4 Stars',1],['3 Stars',14],['2 Stars',9],['1 Star',3],['Bomb',0]
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A great, sustained route with multiple cruxes and fun roof finish. Definitely one of the best of its grade in the Squamish area.Some powerful reaches early on take you to some delicate sequences below the roof. The roof seems unlikely when you're under it, but clip the bolt and swing out, you'll figure it out....[more] Browse More Classics in International
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