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At the stance on Fern Crack
Jam the fist sized crack to a stance, then jam/layback the corner/crack above to a bulge, pull the bulge and squeeze through a small chimney.
Cams to #4 Black Diamond
By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Apr 2, 2012
Do NOT place pro in the thin crack at the bulge 3/4 of the way up. The thin 1"-2" flake that resides in this crack will likely break or at the very least not hold pro in the event of a fall. Very hollow and loose. You could run it out- the bulge is the best part of the route, but if your piece pulls, the fall won't be entirely clean.
A better option is to place a #5 if you have it under the bulge to the right and follow the juggy traverse to a ledge- although this probably knocks this one down to a 5.6 if you choose this way. From the ledge, place a stopper under the lip of the layback dihedral and pull fun moves all the way to the belay. The escape is very loose, but easy. Squeeze chimney to finish and walk off. Fun route.
By Bob Johnson
May 25, 2014
The chimney is VERY unstable. I was climbing this yesterday, got to the chimney, stood up and about 1000 pounds of rock pulled out and tumbled down the face of the cliff. Unbelievably, none of us were hurt. There is still probably a lot of loose rock up there. Due to the rock fall, there is now a large boulder on the ledge halfway up that is loose and is ready to fall.