The following crags are typically closed 1 February to 31 July:
The Goose Goose Eggs East Ridge Mars Block Nebel Horn Tower of the Moon Jamcrack Spire The Pyramid Incognito Crag Devil's Thumb Shadow Fax Isolation Rock Sunset Wall Devil's Wing (W. Face) The Matron Lost & Found The Sibling Toddler Rock Sphinx Medusa
BETA PHOTO: When seen from the South, Fern Canyon reveals its ...
This is an organizational entry suggested by one our users to help with clarify crag locations for those less familiar. This is a minor gully/canyon on the NE side of Bear Peak in the southern half of the Flatirons. It hosts numberous shorter 1-2 pitch climbs of a moderate to advanced level of difficulty. The approach is often 45-60 minutes, although the hike itself is a bonus for the day. Nonetheless, there are some beautiful routes in this area. The great majority of routes here are face climbs. Many routes have a southerly aspect, which permits wonderful climbing on sunny fall & winter days.
Crags accessed from this Fern Canyon Trail include: Nebel Horn Ridge, Onoclea, Pellea, East Ridge, Fiddlehead, The Goose Eggs, The Goose, Mars Block, & Seal Rock. However, for the purpose of this organization, we'll include those crags ordinarily approached from the Fern Canyon trail: Nebel Horn, East Ridge, Onoclea, Pellea, Fiddlehead, The Goose Eggs, & Mars Block.
The closest approach is likely from NCAR at the West end of Table Mesa at the south end of Boulder. From here, hike West to the Mesa Trail, go South on the trail down into the Bear Canyon drainage, continue up to the Fern Canyon sign. Ascend this pretty trail to various point at which you wander NW toward the route of choice.
Violator is a long way up Fern Canyon and just right of the classic Ruby Slipper. Technical arete climbing, great positioning, and hard boulder problems define the route. Solo up the first 25 feet of low-angle 5.0 rock or place nut or two to protect this access. Steep bouldery moves climb out left past the first two bolts. Barn door arete moves climb past the third and fourth bolts. An awkward move takes the climbing onto the right side of the arete past the fifth...[more]Browse More Classics in CO