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Fern Buttress

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Armed Forces Area 
Fern Creek Falls 
Just Send It Wall 
Monolith Wall 
Orchard Wall 
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Wild Seed Area 
Workmen's Buttress 

Fern Buttress 


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Location: 38.0607, -81.0671 View Map  Incorrect?
Page Views: 50,735
Administrators: Chris Whisenhunt, Ladd Raine, Shawn Heath, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: Ladd Raine on Apr 11, 2007
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A. Baldwin on Hysteria

Description 

This area is actually a way of denoting a larger group of areas that lie mostly west of Fern Creek and go almost all the way to Bridge Buttress.

This Area doesn't dry as fast as the rest of the cliffs on Endless Wall due to its very shaded nature. Try Diamond Point Area routes if it may be a wet day.


Getting There 

Use Fern Point ladder; accessible from Fern Point trailhead.

Alternatively, and preferably, most folks park near the bridge and hike east away from Bridge Buttress, you'll see a trail but no cliff, no worries it'll find ya!


Climbing Season


63 Total Routes


['4 Stars',12],['3 Stars',30],['2 Stars',15],['1 Star',4],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',5],['5.7',2],['5.8',3],['5.9',7],['5.10',18],['5.11',14],['5.12',12],['5.13',2],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fern Buttress:
Hysteria   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 60'   Orchard Wall
Two Bag Face   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Workmen's Buttress
Emerald Dance   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13     Trad, 100'   Thieves Area
Goofer's Retreat   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Ritz Cracker Area
Ritz Cracker   5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a     Trad, 2 pitches, 90'   Ritz Cracker Area
Fragile Ego System   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Sport, 1 pitch, 70'   Wild Seed Area
Crescenta   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 90'   Ritz Cracker Area
Triple Treat   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 70'   Orchard Wall
Anal Clenching Adventures   5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   Orchard Wall
Springboard   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 70'   Orchard Wall
Two-Tone Arete   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Thieves Area
New Tricks for the Old Dog   5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Sport, 1 pitch, 60'   Ritz Cracker Area
Bisect   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 45'   Orchard Wall
Shiney Faces   5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b     Trad   Orchard Wall
Wild Seed   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Sport, 70'   Wild Seed Area
Fly Girls   5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a     Sport, 60'   Wild Seed Area
Fall Line   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 80'   Fern Creek Falls
Jug Rash   5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b     Trad, 70'   Ritz Cracker Area
Portly Gentleman's Route   5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b     Trad, 1 pitch, 70'   Orchard Wall
Welcome to Conditioning   5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b     Sport, 1 pitch, 40'   Just Send It Wall
Browse More Classics in Fern Buttress

Featured Route For Fern Buttress
My brother coming up third on Ritz

Ritz Cracker 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a  WV : The New River Gorge : ... : Ritz Cracker Area
One of the coolest easy splitter cracks in the NRG. Looks like someone just grabbed the rock and pulled it apart. Starts in a hand/fat hand crack and goes up a slabby to vertical face with the crack narrowing to fingers at the top. Build an anchor on the ledge with horizontals above the big Hueco, bring up your second and cruise the short but beautiful dihedral to the top. Rap from slings...[more]   Browse More Classics in WV

Comments on Fern Buttress Add Comment
Show which comments
By Jeremy Steck
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Jun 8, 2008

If you are trying to decide which approach to take for this area, consider the Orchard Wall as your point of reference. If you plan to climb at the Orchard Wall or to the west(downstream), approach from the west side. If you plan to climb anything east of the Orchard wall, try the approach from Fern Point. Those with dogs prefer the west approach because there are no ladders to descend.

By Mike Anderson
From: Dayton, OH
Apr 9, 2011

Why so many sub areas? This is irritating!

By Brandy Walters
Jun 13, 2012

I agree with the sub area comment. It wouldn't be as bad if they were in sequence instead of alphabetic order. I don't have my guidebook with me at the moment so I'm trying to figure out which routes are in my range and near each other.

By Jake Jones
From: Richmond, VA
Jun 20, 2013

The shortest approach is actually to park at the Fern lot, follow the trail toward the falls (Fern Creek), and then take a right BEFORE the little foot bridge. Follow the rim for a few minutes and rap in just short of Star Trek Wall. There's usually an established station that's hard to miss. I left some new nylon and a locker there to augment what was already there. To get out without going downstream or having to go all the way to the ladders upstream, just climb out at Star Trek on any of the easy routes and top out- then follow the same way out that you came in. I've been every way in there and out, and that seems to be the shortest.