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Fenghuangling (Phoenix Mountain Nature Park) 


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Administrator: Tom Erickson
Submitted By: Dominic Benson on Aug 6, 2012

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Thu Fri Sat Sun Mon
Mostly Cloudy
91° | 66°
Chance of Rain
79° | 59°
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86° | 63°
Chance of Rain
79° | 59°
Mostly Cloudy
75° | 61°

BETA PHOTO: Photo credit:
www.ebeijing.gov.cn/feature_2...


Description 

Fenghuangling (Phoenix Mountain Nature Park) sits in the Northwest part of Beijing. A plethora of granite blocks scatter the mountainside. Some traditional climbing has been established, and limited information can found with a little scouring of the web.There are potentially many bouldering areas to be discovered. The landscape rarely offers safe landings, but the top of the mountain in the north seems to have another huge potential area from what I can see on google maps satellite view. The adventurous could very well find an area with a lifetime worth of problems. The area we’ve been developing has about a years worth of climbing.
Over a period of six weeks in July and August of 2012, a group of climbers residing in Beijing at the time began developing a couple of sectors in one area along the North Route of the park. (I would like to thank gifted Polish climber Ola Przybysz for telling me about the potential in the area, and salvaging my time in Beijing.)

Access and ethics- Access has not been secured formally to climb at Fenghuangling. It is quite common for Chinese people to die here falling off cliffs, or get lost and need to be rescued. Keep in mind these are people who mostly reside in a city, and little outdoors awareness. Also, the standard of what westerners may consider ‘common sense’ regarding safety tends to be WAY different in China. There are signs all over the place prohibiting, “fire”, “climbing”, and going to areas the authorities believe will result in injury, death, or rescue. However, they are commonly ignored, and when I enquired about the seriousness of these warnings and potential consequences not heeding them, I was told, “If you need to get rescued, it’s your fault, and you’ll have to pay for it. If you die, that sign means it’s not their fault.” So, if boulderers maintain an image as a polite, safe, profitable user group, access should not be an issue. That being said, beware of excessive cleaning on boulders in direct view of the general public, and please don’t go chopping trees down and things of that sort. The locals seem to be quite fond of the group of us who started developing this area. They've greeted us with friendly smiles and kindness. It goes without saying that they like the money any tourists bring. The general public is interested in climbing, and will often stop to watch. We’ve tried to maintain LNT ethics, and pick up at least some of the local’s trash each outing. There is a huge user group of people who have a very different understanding of how we should treat the outdoors from westerners. A polite nudge in the direction of a LNT standard couldn’t hurt.

Stay-
Phoenix Hills Commune, 1062481229 (Really nice accommodations ranging from 300 to 500 RMB. Amazing, organic, vegetarian food. Friendly service.)
Also, there are a few rest/hotel places on the south side of the mountain of average Chinese quality. A Chinese speaker can you get you there via the big, green golf carts.


Getting There 

Take Line 4 of the Beijing Metro Northwest to Beigongmen Station (second to last stop), and get bus #346 from the side of the street with the restaurants. The bus stops at the main gate to the park.
Or
Take Line 4 of the Beijing Metro Northwest to Anheqiaobei Station (last stop), and get a taxi to the park main gate. (Should cost about 70 RMB)

Then;
Take one of the large, green golf cart like shuttles to the North Gate (10 RMB), or walk straight for about 100 feet, and turn right and follow the road less than a mile to the North Gate.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Fenghuangling (Phoenix Mountain Nature Park):
For Sucks Flake   V0-     Boulder, 12 feet   Road To Ruin : Ruination Slab
Muddy Jesus   V0     Boulder, 14 feet   Road To Ruin : Ruination Slab
Siberian Jesus   V0+     Boulder, 12 feet   Road To Ruin : Ruination Slab
David's Turn   V1     Boulder, 14 feet   Area 1680 (The Forest) : The Revolution Boulder
Big Toe Fetish   V1     Boulder, 16 feet   Area 1680 (The Forest) : The Dihedral Project Boulde...
Tiger skin slab    V1     Boulder, 12 feet   Tiger Skin Boulder
Rail Me    V2     Boulder, 9 feet   Area 1680 (The Forest) : Frankencave Grotto
Ride the Wig   V2     Boulder, 10 feet   Road To Ruin : Wigged Sparrow boulder
Scrambles the Death Dealer   V3     Boulder, 8 feet   Road To Ruin : Scrambles the Death Dealer
Ola Loves the Caulk   V4     Boulder, 10 feet   Area 1680 (The Forest) : Giant Boulder
Big Game Hunter   V4     Boulder, 12 feet   Tiger Skin Boulder
Old Mother Fear   V4     Boulder, 16 feet   Area 1680 (The Forest) : The Grotesque Boulder
Project Right   V5     Boulder, 10 feet   Area 1680 (The Forest) : End of Forest Boulder
Lian Dao   V6     Boulder, 8 feet   Area 1680 (The Forest) : Magical Cave of Wonders
Huggs McWondersworth   V7+     Boulder, 9 feet   Area 1680 (The Forest) : Magical Cave of Wonders
V project   V8-     Boulder, 10 feet   Area 1680 (The Forest) : Frankencave Grotto
Left Arete Project   V8     Boulder, 12 feet   Tiger Skin Boulder
Right Arete Project   V11     Boulder, 12 feet   Tiger Skin Boulder
Browse More Classics in Fenghuangling (Phoenix Mountain Nature Park)

Featured Route For Fenghuangling (Phoenix Mountain Nature Park)
Dish of Deception is the line straight up the left side of the face.

Dish of Deception V3  International : Asia : ... : Giant Boulder
Jump start up to the great slopers, get your feet up and mantle out. SUPER fun!...[more]   Browse More Classics in International