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Feng Shui 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 55'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Eric Horst
Page Views: 287
Submitted By: Colin R on May 18, 2012

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Description 

This is a great line just around the arete to the right of Skinhead Grin. Start with steep dynamic pulling between flat blocky holds to a slight bulge/roof where you must make a huge 3 foot dyno off of some nice incut crimps to a giant hueco (probably 5.11+ to here). After this you have another pumpy 5.11a section for about another 20 feet or so wandering through some horizontal crimpy rails at which point you can shake out before heading left onto the arete. Once on the arete you have a no hands rest and need to perform about a V3+ slab sequence (8 feet) with horrible feet to make it to the anchor. This final section is very cryptic so don't get frustrated (like I did) - just examine the possibilities. If you want specific beta for the final section I am happy to provide in the comments below.

Protection 

7 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor.


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