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Reggie Dome
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Fender Bender 

YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 90'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8- French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: VS 4c [details]
FA: Unknown
Page Views: 776
Submitted By: Adam Stackhouse on May 4, 2006
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BETA PHOTO: Richard at the anchor of Fender Bender 5.8

Description 

On the approach to Reggie Dome a large dark face is the first thing encountered, facing west. This face route runs up the middle of this rock, starting directly behind an obviously large pine tree. Climb past a bolt and follow a 1/4 inch seam/crack protectable in only one place by a .75 camalot or similar. 40 feet later another bolt is encountered. Go straight up here for harder moves, or veer left from the bolt and follow big holds to the top. A bit contrived, and could use another bolt between the two existing to make it better for the beginner leader (it is beginner material)


Protection 

Two bolts, small/medium cams. Bolts/rings 90 feet up



Photos of Fender Bender Slideshow Add Photo
Susan peplow on "Fender bender". <br />photo by Blitzo.
Susan peplow on "Fender bender".
photo by Blitzo.
Comments on Fender Bender Add Comment
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By Adam Stackhouse
Administrator
May 4, 2006

On the rounded righthand corner of this face, 10 feet right of Fender Bender is another route or variation called Thomson's Acne, 5.10b R/X. Face climb past the crux with no pro for 30+ feet.

By Taryn
From: San Diego, CA
Oct 22, 2007

IF you go straight up from the second bolt, beware. There is a thin ridge for your feet, with your shins at bolt level, and no/few good hands to lend confidence. A fall while pullng the next moves would mean decking on the slab below you. Veer left if you get skeezed. NOT a good climb on a windy day.

By Brian in SLC
Jan 2, 2008

I stepped fairly straight up off the second bolt, then a step to the right, up, then placed a #2 TCU in the bottom of the crack (below the person at the belay in the photo). Seemed like an uncontrived and natural way to go. Fun route.

By Canon
Nov 8, 2011

Friction and tiny ridges.

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Nov 4, 2012

As Adam noted on the description the route is contrived. Pass the first bolt, then left to the crack. Climbing away until you hit a ledge and see that the next bolt is way to the right. Taking the obvious weakness and natural line is not the route. Clip second bolt, followed by what is probably the crux leads you to the bolted anchors.

For mileage purposes probably still worth doing if you're in the area. That or, you're looking to hit 1000 Josh routes, warming up, within your grade profile, etc. For a destination route?......probably not. Rock quality and slab moves are fun enough. Just contrived.

By Russ Walling
From: www.FishProducts.com
Nov 4, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

This route kinda blew ass. The most interesting thing was the fact the low angle crack is blown out with pin scars! Totally contrivo and should really be straightened out and fixed up by the midnight bolt police. Difficulty depends on the line you choose, but skipping the route altogether would not be a bad option either.

By wesnice
Apr 15, 2013

This climb seems a bit more interesting if you climb straight up and to the right after the first bolt, instead of taking the crack to the left....and do the same after the second bolt.

By Lisa J
Dec 18, 2013

I thought it was a good route! Pretty easy for the grade. Good rock quality. Worthwhile.