Feldspar Route  5.5

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Type:  Trad, 3 pitches, 500 feet Consensus:  5.6 [details] FA:  Lynne Wolfe and Mike Woods 1989 Season:  summer Submitted By:  Elle Kramer on Oct 20, 2010 You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (2) Your todo list: Your stars: Your rating: -none- [change] Your ticklist: [add new tick]

top of pitch 2

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Sticky situation MORE INFO >>> This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind. The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings. This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund, and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates. Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment

Description 

This low angle route follows ~500 feet of flaring crack/seam. Climb until the end of your (60m) rope and a perfect anchor crack magically appears every time. Start pitch 3 by either stepping out onto easy slab or staying inside a more difficult, but more secure chimney.

Location 

This is the left of the two right-leaning cracks starting behind the old cabin. The decent goes down the mellow gully to climbers left.

Protection 

Run-out and weirdly-angled nutting. Smaller hand-sized cams for the anchors. All belays are bomber.

Photos of Feldspar Route Slideshow

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BETA PHOTO: Feldspar Route (left), Moonstone Dome