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Feet above head O/W technique
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Aug 22, 2012
I've only seen this technique in photos of climbing extremely difficult offwidths. I can understand and have even employed Leavitation (knee jam, ab cruch, hand stack, reset), but don't understand what situation would require getting your feet above your head.

Could someone please explain the technique and scenario for this move?
Thanks,
Mike
notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Aug 22, 2012
Castle Wood Canyon, May '09
The technique is like a heel toe cam and is used when going through roofs and steepness, it's pretty straight forward and mindless Sam Feuerborn
From Durango, CO
Joined Aug 4, 2009
757 points
Aug 22, 2012
Leavitation only works when you can score a no-hands rest (e.g. with a knee lock) and then start stacking.

Kick throughs and pivots are basically moves to get you into a no-hands rest. The other thing is that, in general, your leg muscles are bigger than your arm muscles, so it can be less strenuous to hang on lower-body muscles, provided the crack is the right size.

A good introduction to inverted off-width climbing are the boulder problems Life Without Parole
Spin To Win
or the
Wormhole
all at Vedauwoo.
Brian Scoggins
From Boise, ID
Joined Mar 12, 2002
1,120 points
Aug 22, 2012
not that I could even come close to doing it.........

but look up "Trench Warfare" I think that's the name anyway.

I think that might require that type of climbing.
Jim Gloeckler
From Denver, Colo.
Joined Jul 7, 2004
47 points
Aug 22, 2012
Thanks Brian,

Ok, I figured to was d/t leg muscles and rests, but maybe you can add a bit more. What's the difference between a kick-through and a pivot? And once inverted, what's the sequence to gain elevation and reset?

Again, thanks!
notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Aug 22, 2012
soloing Boulder Canyon Upper Falls
pamelashantipack.com/2012/04/2... Micahisaac
From Longmont, CO
Joined Apr 4, 2006
108 points
Aug 22, 2012
gold mine! thanks notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Aug 22, 2012
It's just wrong! It is like some kinky forbidden sex thing that your body is supposed to have some internal protection against!

If you know what is good for you, you just won't do it!

What is our climbing community coming to!
James Crump
Joined Dec 17, 2008
200 points
Aug 22, 2012
Chillin' at City of Rocks
Haha......yes it should be forbidden to invert.....

Personally I just love to get my feet, knees, legs above my hands......but I have yet done an invert or kick-through.....maybe this weekend at the Voo....on a top-rope...... Lol

I think iIt is pretty obvious when the technique is necessary.......
Princess Mia
From Vail
Joined May 22, 2006
427 points
Aug 22, 2012
My most adventurous memory
Kick throughs generally have one leg high (heel-toeing to some degree) while the other is low and driving your body upwards, typically you hands are stacked in the middle somewhere between your feet. You hang a lot from your top foot until you can either shuffle your hands further, then foot higher, repeat... Or you get your hands high and back into a "normal" upright position. A lot of this depends on the steepness and width of the crack though.

Full inversions are when both feet are above you and your hanging primarily from heel toe cams of some type of foot jam deep in the crack. This is a pretty good position to be in and as long as you keep moving it can be very productive. The crux is usually pivoting out of the inversion back upright. This is often used when the crack is to wide or difficult to "stack yer way through it" and it's actually easier to hang from something large like your feet... then you can relax and think about kittens.

Check out Desiderata(in WY) for a doable inversion traverse.

or Leaning Wide Crack
or Born To Bleed (both in NV) if you're ever in those areas and looking to try it.

You might find it fun and not all that "extremely difficult" at times.
Matt Kuehl
From red rock
Joined Nov 29, 2010
1,388 points
Aug 22, 2012
Thanks Matt!

I actually did do this on Imaginary Voyage, got a double foot stack, hung totally upside-down and swung like hell to grab a roof jug. It was actually fun, and with a #5 cam protecting everything, not that scary--or hard.
notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Aug 23, 2012
Relaxing in the Tuttle Creek Campground after a fu...
Honnold get's stuck upside down on Belly Full of Bad Berries in this video (then sends later):

youtu.be/M2dIZt4FCeE
Cory
From Boise, ID
Joined Mar 25, 2008
2,521 points
Aug 23, 2012
Hittin' Miguel's with the new Chimps in tow
Inverted O/W climbing actually almost never occurs. During legitimate O/W climbing, the body's natural defenses resist inversions from occurring. Which is not to say that they cannot, but they are one in a million. But such remote possibilities are presented as common and brought up by O/W activists and repeated by their minions in the press. Matt Roberts
From Columbus, OH
Joined Mar 24, 2010
97 points
Aug 23, 2012
Mexican Border Fence
@ Matt Roberts- I know of plenty legitimate offwidths which require inversion. How would you suggest pulling through a section of overhanging butterflied hands (your knee won't fit) with no holds available? Jamie Henrichsen
From Lake Morena, CA
Joined Oct 19, 2009
63 points
Aug 23, 2012
Mexican Border Fence
Matt Roberts wrote:
Inverted O/W climbing actually almost never occurs. During legitimate O/W climbing, the body's natural defenses resist inversions from occurring. Which is not to say that they cannot, but they are one in a million. But such remote possibilities are presented as common and brought up by O/W activists and repeated by their minions in the press.



Okay I get it. Legitimate OW. Like legitimate rape. Nice Todd Akin reference.

jezebel.com/5936160/the-offici...
Jamie Henrichsen
From Lake Morena, CA
Joined Oct 19, 2009
63 points
Aug 23, 2012
Matt Roberts wrote:
Inverted O/W climbing actually almost never occurs. During legitimate O/W climbing, the body's natural defenses resist inversions from occurring. Which is not to say that they cannot, but they are one in a million. But such remote possibilities are presented as common and brought up by O/W activists and repeated by their minions in the press.


Very clever.
Logan Schiff
From Brooklyn, NY
Joined Jun 18, 2012
63 points
Administrator
Aug 23, 2012
tomato, tomotto, kill mike amato.
one of the reasons to go foot/feet first on steep OW is that you often can't free up one of your hands when you are stacking if it is steep. by going feet first, you can basically hang off of one foot while you move the other. personally, i don't really like doing extended pieces of inverted climbing because it makes my head feel like it is going to explode. slim
Joined Dec 1, 2004
2,072 points
Aug 31, 2012
Please feel free to post videos of your inverted off width technique.

That's what I thought. Me neither.
John Husky
Joined May 10, 2011
3 points
Sep 4, 2012
wankel7
From Indiana
Joined Oct 4, 2010
17 points
Feb 8, 2014
Does anyone have a photo that I could use of inversion technique for a book I'm putting together?
-Mike
notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Feb 8, 2014
PM'ed about photos TBrumme
From denver, co
Joined Dec 14, 2011
107 points
Feb 8, 2014
Got 'em thanks!!! notmyname
From Stony Brook, NY
Joined Apr 9, 2007
125 points
Feb 18, 2014
On the approach to Black Dike, Cannon Cliff NH
Ah yes, leg-jamming..... Upside down. Of course! Russ Keane
Joined Feb 8, 2013
219 points


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