|Upper Dodge City
|Type: ||Trad, 2 pitches, 210'|
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]|
|FA: ||David Cotton & Steve Cotton, 1986|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Page Views: ||252|
|Submitted By: ||David Evans on Oct 17, 2004|
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BETA PHOTO: The right end of the Upper Dodge City formation.
Climb cracks on the right side of the leaning ramp/pillar to the right of "The Man Who Shot Liberty Valance" until you find yourself in an alcove below a roof. Either exit the left side or directly through the roof (either way is 5.8) and do a slightly improbable traverse right on thin horizontal cracks. Belay on a sloping ledge with a dead Joshua Tree wedged in the crack to your right. Climb the crack to the right and straight up. Lieback and stem the thin crack above passing one bolt (5.10-), continue to the top.
Standard rack to 3"
|By Anonymous Coward|
Jan 4, 2005
This route is "The Hoosegow". It is listed in the Bartlett Indian Cove supplement. First climbed by Kris Solem and (?) Guy Keesee in about 1993 and rated 5.10c.
|By Kris Solem|
From: Monrovia, CA
Jan 13, 2005
AJ is correct. That is not "The Hoosegow," which is just right of "Spaghetti Western."
|By David Cotton|
Nov 4, 2007
Name: Feeling Mary
FA: David Cotton, Steve Cotton
When: Spring 86
The bolt is stamped "DLC". My brother gave me alot of grief for drilling that bolt, which resulted in the the runouts on TOTDY (AKA Cactus Pete).