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 ADVANCED
Mean Mistreater Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Beautiful Flyaway T 
Crab Corner T 
Crab Legs T 
Crab Salad T 
Feelin' Fertile S 
Irrational Inquirer T 
Mean Mistreater T,S 
Pegasus T 
Rich and Dave Route T 
Steppin in the Slide Zone T 

Feelin' Fertile 

YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b PG13

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Eric Meade, Cameron Guthrie (1988)
Page Views: 590
Submitted By: GDS on Jul 14, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (4)
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It's a waaaaaaaays to the first bolt.

Description 

The line starts with good holds over a shallow flake and then onto a section of thin slab. After clipping the 3rd bolt, you'll face a runout section of dicey slab to the next bolt. You may continue to a thin mantle shortly after the 3rd bolt; a fall above this point risks ground fall. Retreating above the 3rd bolt also means reversing the mantle. The climb finishes at the anchors for the start of the second pitch of Mean Mistreater.

I am unsure why the bolt was never placed, or if it has been removed since the first FA. Squeezing II shows the runout well on the Mean Mistreater Wall Topo. A good route to avoid unless you are very comfortable with thin slab moves.

Location 

Bolt line starting to the right of Mean Mistreater.

Protection 

~5 bolts, with runout between bolts #3 and #4. Double anchors for the rap/lower.


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By Christian
From: Casa do Cacete
Nov 24, 2007
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13

Getting to the first bolt looks a little sketchy too.
By MJW
From: Boise, ID
Nov 17, 2008

Link this into Pegasus(upper headwall) for the full value old-school pitch. The rock and moves on Pegasus are brilliant.
By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Jan 4, 2010

or skip clipping the belay bolts and make a nice 50ft 5.9 runout from the last bolt on feelin fertile to the first on mean mistreater and finish on that climb. a nice, long direct line!
By BSmith
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Apr 16, 2010

Pegasus! I was wracking my brain to remember this route. Absolutely brilliant! Why is it not listed?
By jbak
Apr 16, 2010

mmmm... because you haven't done it yet ?
By BSmith
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Apr 16, 2010

Not done Pegasus? I'm pretty sure I remember doing that one. Little roof ... little pro ... It's the route Steiger put up, isn't it? I think I did the 3rd or 4th ascent -- maybe the first person to do it without a fall? Who would want to fall on that route!? I remember quite an audience. John Steiger belayed me. I remember telling him I was going to solo up to the start (didn't Pegasus share the first pitch?) and he was going to walk around to a ledge system with all the gear. As I approached the anchors I looked down and saw John soloing up behind me trailing two ropes and carrying all the gear! He's great. I think Davidson and Ringle were there, as well. Still, it's the one line I remember from Tucson so it must be the best climb in the Western Hemisphere ... or was that Desire?
By jbak
Apr 16, 2010

Jeez Brad, I know you've done the ROUTE ! I meant "because you haven't entered it on this SITE yet". It's a communal effort, not someone's job.

I remember the route as being good but kind of scary.
By Paul Davidson
Apr 16, 2010

Isn't that the one you dropped the rack off of and then started yelling out that you were going to die until Ray and I ran around to the top and tossed you a TR ?


Bwwaaahhaahaa, just kidding. I vaguely remember being in the area that day and while it was a bit of a tense lead it went nicely.

Post it up... otherwise it will get retro bolted :-)
By BSmith
From: Many farms, Az / Allen, Ne
Apr 16, 2010

Funny how age hasn't made me any smarter. Sorry, I get it now. I'll have to consult with the 1st ascent team before i post the route. As a matter of fact, why hasn't John done that?

I do remember someone crying on that route, Paul. When you say you were somewhere in the area, you mean you were hopping up and down trying to see over the brush as I climbed the route, right? It is okay to make fun of the vertically challenged? And where did you get 6'6"? Although, I suppose everyone over 5'8" must appear monstrous to you :) I'm only 6'4".
By Paul Davidson
Apr 19, 2010

JS only rarely sticks his nose in here. Probably because he'd have to end up repeating the guide online....