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 ADVANCED
Prestige Worldwide Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Ellie's Little Crack T 
Bolts & Hoes S 
Dragon 
Drowned Rat T 
F**king Catalina Wine Mixer S 
Feeding The Rat TR 
Flaked Out T 
Gilded Lady, The S 
Kung Fu 
Mud Bath T 
Night Hawk 
One Rat Too Many T 
Pack Rat T 
Pine Tree Eliminate T 
Rain Delay T 
Rat Rod T 
Seams Thin T 
Slabs Direct T 
Slap or Die 
Stay Golden Pony Boy 
Tetherly T 
Trailside Traverse  
Uptown Girl 
Unsorted Routes:

Feeding The Rat 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Deb Thompson
Page Views: 256
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 20, 2013

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Deb on the left start.

Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a difficult-to-set-up toprope problem that has 2 interesting parts and might be led at a R rating.

There are 2 possible starts. The left start above a bush is a bit reachy for the height-challenged. The right start is noticeably easier. Continue up moderate terrain to the upper double crack system. Start in the left crack and move up and right into the other crack. Unfortunately, the topout doesn't have much for an anchor.

Maybe we could put in a bolted anchor if folks actually found this interesting.

Location 

This is left of Seams Thin and goes up to a double crack finish. It is just left of the offwidth of One Rat Too Many.

Protection 

We used a funky combo of an okay #4 BD wire at the top of the climb with a long (10') directional off a #1 Camalot and yellow Alien under a boulder to the left and a bomberang type threaded sling under a large boulder after topping out One Rat Too Many.


Photos of Feeding The Rat Slideshow Add Photo
Deb in the upper crux.
Deb in the upper crux.
The route with a rope over the left start.
BETA PHOTO: The route with a rope over the left start.

Comments on Feeding The Rat Add Comment
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Denver
Sep 20, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

I thought this was interesting, but I doubt the cliff will ever be popular, so a bolt anchor is not really needed. If this were somewhere like High Wire, it would likely become popular but not here.