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Prestige Worldwide Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Big Ellie's Little Crack 
Bolts & Hoes 
Dragon 
Drowned Rat 
F**king Catalina Wine Mixer 
Feeding The Rat 
Flaked Out 
Gilded Lady, The 
Kung Fu 
Mud Bath 
Night Hawk 
One Rat Too Many 
Pack Rat 
Pine Tree Eliminate 
Rain Delay 
Rat Rod 
Seams Thin 
Slabs Direct 
Slap or Die 
Stay Golden Pony Boy 
Tetherly 
Trailside Traverse  
Uptown Girl 
Unsorted Routes:

Feeding The Rat 

YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  TR, 1 pitch, 40'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Deb Thompson
Page Views: 203
Submitted By: Leo Paik on May 20, 2013
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Deb on the left start.

Description 

This is a difficult-to-set-up toprope problem that has 2 interesting parts and might be led at a R rating.

There are 2 possible starts. The left start above a bush is a bit reachy for the height-challenged. The right start is noticeably easier. Continue up moderate terrain to the upper double crack system. Start in the left crack and move up and right into the other crack. Unfortunately, the topout doesn't have much for an anchor.

Maybe we could put in a bolted anchor if folks actually found this interesting.


Location 

This is left of Seams Thin and goes up to a double crack finish. It is just left of the offwidth of One Rat Too Many.


Protection 

We used a funky combo of an okay #4 BD wire at the top of the climb with a long (10') directional off a #1 Camalot and yellow Alien under a boulder to the left and a bomberang type threaded sling under a large boulder after topping out One Rat Too Many.



Photos of Feeding The Rat Slideshow Add Photo
Deb in the upper crux.
Deb in the upper crux.
The route with a rope over the left start.
BETA PHOTO: The route with a rope over the left start.
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By Jay Eggleston
From: Littleton
Sep 20, 2013
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- HVS 4c

I thought this was interesting, but I doubt the cliff will ever be popular, so a bolt anchor is not really needed. If this were somewhere like High Wire, it would likely become popular but not here.