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Joe Wilson Canyon
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Feeding the Rat 
King Arthur's Seat 
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Stool, The 

Feeding the Rat 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b C2 PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Aid, 3 pitches, 210', Grade III
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ British: MVS 4b C2 [details]
FA: Paul Ross and Gene Vallee, June 13, 2000
Season: Desert Season
Page Views: 708
Submitted By: Matt Pickren on Sep 10, 2007
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This is the bush that is being used as a rap ancho...

Description 

Feeding the Rat is located on the southwest prow of the tower. It is on the edge you seen from the parking lot.

Pitch 0- Scramble up to a large ledge on the shoulder of the tower.

Pitch 1- Climb a pillar-like (very soft) formation 20 feet to an obvious horizontal crack. Traverse out crack left to an uncomfortable natural belay below small crack. 5.7 C1+ 40 feet

Pitch 2- Aid up tiny blue and black alien crack straight off belay. Follow this crack for 30 feet to pins and bolts. Follow bolts and studs with occasional placement to bolted belay on a decent ledge. C2 100 feet

Pitch 3- Aid up more bolts and free climb up staircases to the summit. Belay of a bush. 5.5 C1 60 feet

Descent- Pray, if you think it'll help. Rappel from small bush off the east side of the tower. Seriously, this bush is scary. We backed up the one half others had used to the other small half. A single bolt would inspire much more confidence. You will need double 60s as these just get you to the ground. Also, pulling the ropes was really hard so get the note well over the edge.


Location 

Continue on the road, which turns to cattle trails, from the parking lot. Feeding the Rat is on the edge of the tower facing the parking lot.


Protection 

Triples in black and blue aliens. Doubles from yellow alien to #2 camalot. 1 Set stoppers. At least 4 butterfly hangers were nice to have. Additional 6+ free biners or draws for lots of pins/bolts.



Photos of Feeding the Rat Slideshow Add Photo
Brad getting ready for the pillar and horizontal free climbing on the first pitch.
Brad getting ready for the pillar and horizontal f...
Brad working the horizontal crack, very akward, to the point being in aiders is easier.
Brad working the horizontal crack, very akward, to...
Ross and Gardener starting pitch 2 on the first attempt
Ross and Gardener starting pitch 2 on the first at...
Big smiles before the tiny, soft seam!
Big smiles before the tiny, soft seam!
Matt on the thin start to pitch two.
Matt on the thin start to pitch two.
On the way down the long east face. Please hold little roots....
On the way down the long east face. Please hold li...
Tranquility Tower from the approach.
BETA PHOTO: Tranquility Tower from the approach.
Matt following the traverse on pitch one.
Matt following the traverse on pitch one.
Ross and Gardner starting the first ascent of the tower.Came back later for compleat  FA June 2000
Ross and Gardner starting the first ascent of the ...
Comments on Feeding the Rat Add Comment
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By Jeff Widen
Jan 17, 2012

Ben K and I did this route this weekend - we added a 1/2" x 3" strike bolt to the rap anchor, so future parties can have a bit more peace of mind! Fun route.