Feeding the Rat - Part II
|1,204 page views|
|Type: ||Trad, 4 pitches, 670 feet, Grade II|
|Consensus: ||5.9- [details]|
|FA: ||Paul Ross, John Glime, Sept 15/2007|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Submitted By: ||USBRIT on Sep 17, 2007|
Paul Ross On the first pitch
The climb starts on the inner right (north) side of the impressive Bongo Canyon . The Route takes the slab ramp that leads to a long crack system of perfect rock that forms the top two pitches. Classic for the area.
(P1. Climb onto the slab trending up to the left past two bolts and a #3 friend placement to a flake/crack and good ledge. Double anchors. 130' 5.8
(P2. Climb up to the right of the ledge then head up leftwards passed a thin flake to a bolt .Move right from the bolt ,then back left to double anchors below the crack/corner. 190'5.9-
(P3 Follow superb crack system on excellent rock to double anchors. 200'5.5. (P4. More crack to a fine summit. 150'5.5.
Descent:- Rap the route.
North side of Bongo Canyon. This is a large amphitheater located about 20 mins walk south of the Univa trail head. It has very dark rock on its steep south side ,were the route 5.12 route Silver Lining is located.
Cams 1/2" to 3.5 Friends ,stoppers Two 60m ropes
|Photos of Feeding the Rat - Part II Slideshow
Paul Ross on Pitch 2
John topping out pitch 3 . Looking down on the can...
Paul starting the 150' pitch 4
John on the summit with the dark wall down to the ...
BETA PHOTO: (A)Heart of Stone 5.7+. (B)Aguille Du Tangelo.5.4R...
Swell swimming pool
BETA PHOTO: Slightly wider view of the starting pitch.
|Comments on Feeding the Rat - Part II
|By John J. Glime|
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Sep 18, 2007
In case there is any doubt, Paul is the Rat.
Sep 19, 2007
I resemble that remark !Actually the route was named after a book title "Feeding the Rat" that tells the life style of an old Brit friend of mine Mo Anthoine (now deceased). A great character, who like myself had to keep returning to the risk of climbing to help overcome some of the problems of life..............