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Unsorted Routes:

Feeding the Beast 

YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b

   
Type: Sport, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12b French: 7b Ewbanks: 26 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6b [details]
FA: ?
Season: Winter or cool temps... gets lots of sun. SW facing.
Page Views: 105
Submitted By: SteveZ on Mar 3, 2013
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Flood damaged road reopens MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Scramble up ledges and blocks to the base of the hanging arete. Mantle onto a big ledge, clip high, and relax. Meanwhile prepare for the powerful crux moving onto and grappling up the arete on slopers. When the arete leans right, you can either follow it for a pumpy finish or roll straight over and paddle up easy climbing to a ledge to clip the anchor. It is a fairly awkward finish either way, though it is somewhat contrived to stay right.

This has pretty solid rock throughout aside from the discontinuous beginning and an avoidable detached bulge up top.


Location 

It is the furthest left route on the upper crag. Climb the sharp arete that makes up the end of the wall.


Protection 

4 bolts to a two bolt anchor. It has a very high first bolt which can be stick clipped from the blocks left of the arete.



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By SteveZ
From: Arvada, CO
Mar 3, 2013

If anyone knows the FA info, let me know and I'll edit it in.

For what it's worth, my partner and I thought the crux was pretty stout (though brief) for 12b as listed in Bob D's book. Probably somewhere in between Joy Ride and Der Letzte Zug difficulty wise.