2014 Update: Blob Rock, Bitty Buttress, and all seasonal raptor closure areas on U.S. Forest Service land will be re-opened August 1, 2014 for climbing.
Each year, Boulder Canyon raptor nesting area closures are in effect starting February 1st through July 31st at Eagle Rock, Security Risk, Blob Rock, and Bitty Buttress. However, the area is monitored and closures are periodically lifted early (due to no active nest, nest site failure, or early fledging). This monitoring program is a partnership with the Forest Service Boulder Ranger District, Boulder Climbing Community, and Audubon Society. Check back periodically during times of closure for updates. More info at www.fs.usda.gov/recmain/arp/recreation.
This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
This route is on the lower Animal World buttress, immediately left of Joint Venture's upper half. Where Joint Venture heads to the right of the 2 bolt mid-height anchor, Feeding the Beast stays to the left of the line of bolts on the upper section. It could be rapped in two, short raps if you don't have a 60m rope.
Climb up the fun 11a/b face at the base of Joint Venture through 4 bolts, past the 2 bolt anchor, stay left and up the dihedral (5.8 or 9-ish...takes gear) to the start of the bolts and the meat of the pitch. The awkward crux will call on your crack technique and your endurance, so don't dawdle until you clip the anchors.
Though the rock quality and the gear is good, I'm not sure it merits two full stars--- maybe 1.5 ....
60m rope, 12 quickdraws for the bolts, and mid-size cams (#1-3) for the dihedral. (I placed a red Alien and a red Camalot). Rap anchors.
Photos of Feeding The Beast (aka Beast Food) Slideshow
Alternate description from redundant posting [Added by Ed.]
Beast Food is really just a short but excellent second pitch, or alternate finish, to either the Old Dihedral (5.7) or Joint Venture (5.11a).
So you can use either of these two routes to get to Beast Food.From the midpoint anchors on Joint Venture, you can step immediately left into the crack, which is not difficult and can be protected by a couple of #1-#2 friends OR you can go up Joint Venture and clip the next bolt after the midpoint anchors, and then step left and clip the first bolt on Beast Food. If you were to continue up the rightmost bolt line here rather than stepping left, it would take you to the upper anchors of Joint Venture.
After all that explanation, here is my recommendation: skip the gear and the old dihedral, and climb the excellent first half of Joint Venture, which has nice 11a moves for the first 4 bolts. Then climb up and clip the next bolt after the midpoint anchors, and step left on jugs to start Beast Food.
Beast Food burls up a continuously overhanging headwall for about 15-20 feet of strenuous sidepulls, past 4 bolts to anchors at 85 feet.The moves are difficult and the feet are generally bad and hard to find.When you finally break out of the sidepulls, just under the anchors, you feel like you are out of the woods. However, you soon find that the holds are a little slopey and there are bad feet, so even the very last move before you clip the anchors is a bit tenuous.
Lots of fun and great stone! This thing would be 3 stars if it were longer. Linking it with the first half of Joint Venture makes for a long and reasonably continuous line.
The grading discrepancy is explained by the fact that the bolts on this route protect 2 different lines. Climbing the groove left of the bolts is continuously difficult and hard 12a or 12b. Climbing the blunt arete right of the bolts and angling back to the anchors also provides good climbing at 11+ or easy 12a. Both variations are worth doing.
The crux getting into the slot on the 12b section is really strange! Felt like some sort of off width move, even though there wasn't any off width. hmm....
Also, I veered right into the old 5.7 for sufficiently easy ground to run out the distance between the bolts. The hand traverse from the old 5.7 dihedral out to the first bolt on Beast was exposed, but the jugs were huge!
By Tony B From: Around Boulder, CO May 18, 2008 rating: 5.12-7a+25VIII+25E5 6a
The funky moves staying left are pretty technical (cough cough, scummy kneebar) but what sells me on the idea that this is indeed a 5.12 is the vicsious pump you have by the end! Good climb- start on Joint Venture, clip one of the anchor bolts, then continue, placing a cam or two in the corner, and up to the top. A single 70M gets you down with rope to spare. I suspect a 60M will do as well, but have not confirmed.