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Bush Shark Area
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Feeding Frenzy 

YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b PG13

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c French: 6b Ewbanks: 20 UIAA: VII British: E2 5b [details]
FA: John Kear, Lee Brinckerhoff, Bryan Pletta, Marc Beverly
Page Views: 333
Submitted By: Bill Matlin on May 18, 2012
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Description 

Starts and stays to the left of Bush Shark Spire and ends at the bolted belay on Bush Shark. On the heady side for the emerging 5.10 climber.


Protection 

A few bolts and a few small cams.



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By John Kear
From: Albuquerque, NM
May 21, 2012
rating: 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII E2 5b

I thought this route had been posted on MP long ago, I'm not sure what happened to it. Lee Brinckerhoff, Bryan Pletta and I put in the work cleaning and bolting the route. Marc Beverly and I then went and climbed it a few days later. Its definitely not a sport route, there are 4 bolts and a fixed pin, the route needs small cams up to a #1 camalot, be sure to bring extra blue tcu/green alien size pieces. With a 70m rope you'll just barely get back to the ground so the route length is about 115ft.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
May 22, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

What John says seems to jive with my memory. I think it was after I had gone down to take photos of John and Bryan on Hammerhead that we tr'd, cleaned and bolted the line. I seemed to remember Marc being involved in some way but not on that first day, just could not remember how, but what John says makes sense.

By LeeAB
Administrator
From: ABQ, NM
Aug 17, 2012
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13

Sorting through old climbing journals. It looks like John and I TR'd this route in November of '03 when John was trying for the 2nd of Hammerhead. Then the route got bolted by John, Bryan and myself at the beginning of December after Bryan and John climbed Hammerhead and I shot photos of them.