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Piz Pordoi
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Fedele T 
South Pillar, a.k.a. “Mariakante” T 

Fedele 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 26 pitches, 2625'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Fedele Bernard, Giorgio mase Dari. 1929
Season: Summer
Page Views: 3,278
Submitted By: eDixon on May 25, 2007

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BETA PHOTO: The route of Fedele

Description 

This is a really long route. That being said, the climbing is not too difficult and it is possible to move fast up this face.

Pitch 1 - Up a corner and right on ledge. (40m)
Pitch 2 - Continue right on ledge. (40m)
Pitch 3 - Follow a ramp back to the left. (40m)
Pitch 4 - Face climb right to before the black water streaks. (40m)
Pitch 5 - Follow a ledge right, crossing the black water streaks. (40m)
Pitch 6 - Climb face and groove. (35m)
Pitch 7 - Traverse right on ledge. (25m)
Pitch 8 - Climb up through overhangs to top of small pillar. (35m)
Pitch 9 - Climb face up and left. (40m)
Pitch 10 - Climb chimney, trending up and left. (35m)
Pitch 11 - Continue up and left through chimney. (25m)
Pitch 12 - Face climb up and step right to ledge. (40m)
Pitch 13 - Follow broken crack and face passing a ledge. (35m)
Pitch 14 - Up and left through a groove/corner. (30m)
Pitch 15 - Short chimney to face climbing. (30m)
Pitch 16 - Face climb towards the black water streaks. (25m)
Pitch 17 - Climb up through the often wet black water streaks. (40m)
Pitch 18 - Traverse up and left out of the black water streaks to a ledge. (40m)
Pitch 19 - Climb up to a small stance and then a chimney. (40m)
Pitch 20 - Finish the chimney to arrive at the large terrace. (25m)
Pitch 21 - Move to the back of the terrace and climb up broken crack. (30m)
Pitch 22 - More broken crack to the base of a chimney. (40m)
Pitch 23 - Climb the chimney up and slightly right. (40m)
Pitch 24 - Continue up the chimney. (35m)
Pitch 25 - More of the same chimney system. (45m)
Pitch 26 - Leave the chimney and face climb to the top of the formation. (45m)

Descent - Head towards the line-cart and then down the long marked gully and back to the base of the wall.


Location 

The route ascends the north-west face of Piz Pordoi. Park on the Sella Pass road at the Pian Schiavaneis Inn.


Protection 

There are a number of pins on the route. Bring a selection of nuts and small cams. Extra slings are also useful.



Comments on Fedele Add Comment
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By Rob Booher
From: Knoxville, TN
Feb 16, 2011

This looks incredible. I'm planning a summer in Italy and Switzerland for this coming season. Do you have any other beta on the Dolomites? Any help is appreciated, as I am currently going at it blind.

By Thomas Reid Martin
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Nov 30, 2011

Hey man, how was the trip? I think I am currently in the position you were in last Febuary? Do you care to share what you found and what you recommend?