This route is located on the upper tier of the rock, and has magnificent views of the San Jose area, and also potentially of would-be bottle throwers at the top of the rock. Another advantage of this area is that the rock is smooth and a little sheltered so that glass seems to miss the belay stance on the route.
To access this climb, either climb the lower tier routes and go a little right until the rock starts heading severely downward, or you can also walk over from the path by following the apporach to the top anchors for the lower tier, and continue around to the right until you see bolts heading up a steep face. if you get to the bolts on the considerably less vertical slab, you've gone past the route and are looking at Dahmer's Delight. There's also a small tree that is in the perfect belay stance, and should probably be used to anchor the belayer to avoid pulling a climbing team dowm below over the lip into the lower tier.
Slab climbing with a neat transition between two cracks.
This is a really balancy route that involves a safe yet exposed crux between the second and third bolts. The route is also little runout before the first bolt, and after the third bolt, though the climbing in these sections is considerably easier.
You'll want a really long sling for the last bolt to reduce rop drag if anyone will be top roping.
3 bolts to a 2 bolt top anchor.
BETA PHOTO: Fecolagniac beta picture
|By Brian Quiter|
From: Oakland, CA
Aug 27, 2002
Saying the runout is safe is slighly pushing it, I sprained my ankle pretty bad falling, and it was mainly due to the fact that the bolt is a long way left of the crux, and the resulting fall will potentially take you sqarely into a dihedral.The bolting scheme seems to be such that all three climbs in the area can share the same anchors without severe rope drag.