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Warbonnet Peak
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Black Elk T 
Brown Cow T 
Drop of a hat... T 
feather buttress T 
Northeast Face, Left T 
our route T 
Un-named T 
Weather Or Not... T 
Unsorted Routes:

feather buttress 

YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b R

   
Type:  Trad, Alpine, 8 pitches, 1000', Grade IV
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10+ French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 20 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: fowler/lowe
Season: summer
Page Views: 4,690
Submitted By: Cor on Sep 10, 2010

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feathercrest

Description 

this route up the north face is black elk's brother. just as hard (i thought) and the feather crest pitch at the top...wow!


Location 

on the north face seen from your cirque camp.
hike up the scree to the base. follow slab/ramp to the only real left facing dihedral system on the north face. follow that up to it's top, then veer right and up to another shorter left facing dihedral. from there wander up to the top and climb the runout feather crest pitch (which is nice and narrow, but not hard.) a few traversing pitchs across the top bring you to the backside walkoff down towards sundance pinicale. cut through the notch towards the trail and arrowhead lake, and back around into the cirque.


Protection 

it says in a book to follow the leftfacing dihedral system, and standard rack. the dihedral system is a fat crack/squeeze/chimney. take up to a #6 camalot, or run it out like we did. . .



Photos of feather buttress Slideshow Add Photo
feathercrest
feathercrest
Sunset on the crest
Sunset on the crest
Summit of Warbonnet sans clothing
Summit of Warbonnet sans clothing
Topping out the crest
Topping out the crest
The infamous Feather Crest. Dubbed "The wildest 5.9 pitch in North America". What an incredible route.
The infamous Feather Crest. Dubbed "The wildest 5....
The route ascends the long curving corner system up through the prominent sunlit buttress. Might be one of the most aesthetic features around.
The route ascends the long curving corner system u...
looking at pitchs 2-4 aprox. <br />
looking at pitchs 2-4 aprox.
Noah leading the pitch below the crest
Noah leading the pitch below the crest
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