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Unsorted Routes:

Feast and Famine 

YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b

   
Type:  Sport, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 21 British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Ken Mills, Jimmy Steagall & Eric Hanson '92'
Season: Late Winter-Spring to Autumn
Page Views: 751
Submitted By: David Arthur Sampson on Aug 18, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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Always with the buttshots. We need a full time ph...

Description 

This climb has two cruxes; pulling the first overhang/ roof and then pulling the second roof.

Awesome climbing on fairly steep rock. Either do the boulder problem start, or by-pass on the right; scramble up the slab to the first overhang/ roof for the first bolt.

Location 

The fourth climb on your left as you enter the corridor proper (as I recall- I will look this up)- look for a bulgy overhang ~ one meter off the deck, followed by a slab run to a second overhang/ roof. A second small roof (~60 feet) can be seen from the deck.

Protection 

7 bolts to a two shut rap.


Photos of Feast and Famine Slideshow Add Photo
Bouldery start, multiple roofs, crack underclings,...
Bouldery start, multiple roofs, crack underclings,...

Comments on Feast and Famine Add Comment
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By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 19, 2008
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b

FA's - Ken Mills, Jimmy Steagall & Eric Hanson '92
By JimmyK
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jan 24, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

More difficult than 10c/d. 1st roof was challanging but well protected. 2nd roof was more challanging and less protected.
By brucy
Apr 15, 2010
rating: 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c

We (my partner and I) thought the route as way more difficult then the guide book states- if one straddles the bolts at the upper crux. Also we thought the protection could have been better placed on the upper crux as well. By chance 2 years after our ascent we overheard a party of two just finishing the route who were mumbling that they thought the route as middle 11 if Public Hanging was 11c and Armed and Dangerous was 11b.