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Fear-Virgin crossover
5.9+ YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA E1 5a British
Avg: 0.5 from 8
votes
Routes in i. Sun Wall (Long Slabs)
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Bulge Aria S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Cerca del Paraiso S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Enso, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Fear Factor Direct S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Fear-Virgin crossover S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Ghetto Palm S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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High Steppin' S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Like A Slabby Virgin S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Nine Line S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Pennsyltucky S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Slabtastic S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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There Will Be Blood S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Uwe comes to America S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Virgin Suicides S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Will it Stay or Will it go S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
Order Wrong?
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| Type: | Sport, 150 ft (45 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,288 total · 9/month |
| Shared By: | Larry S on Apr 6, 2012 |
| Admins: | Justin Johnsen, SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC |
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Description
The topo says to start at Fear-Refactored (second bolt line off the ground) or Smear Factor (Third Bolt line off the ground). Topo says 5.9+, but we felt the start off of Smear Factor made it 5.10+, can't comment about the other start.
The main part of the climb moves up a small right facing corner that diagonals right past 6 or so bolts.
If starting from Fear, move up and left into the brushy alcove, traverse left thru it to join up the corner. I haven't tried this start so i can't comment on the difficulty.
If starting from Smear, head straight up directly next to and partly on the seeping moss covered face, make some balancy moves at the second bolt (crux) clipping 3-4 bolts, then move right to join the inside corner. Runners, skipping, or back-cleaning are recommended for the 4th and 5th bolt.
Second pitch is much easier, maybe 5.6? It continues up to the anchor for the second pitch of Virgin Suicides. There is alot of loose and dirty rock on this pitch, I had a few holds rip-out, take care not to kill anyone below on Virgin Suicides.
The main part of the climb moves up a small right facing corner that diagonals right past 6 or so bolts.
If starting from Fear, move up and left into the brushy alcove, traverse left thru it to join up the corner. I haven't tried this start so i can't comment on the difficulty.
If starting from Smear, head straight up directly next to and partly on the seeping moss covered face, make some balancy moves at the second bolt (crux) clipping 3-4 bolts, then move right to join the inside corner. Runners, skipping, or back-cleaning are recommended for the 4th and 5th bolt.
Second pitch is much easier, maybe 5.6? It continues up to the anchor for the second pitch of Virgin Suicides. There is alot of loose and dirty rock on this pitch, I had a few holds rip-out, take care not to kill anyone below on Virgin Suicides.
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