A pretty compelling line up top, but unfortunately has some detractors down low. Overall worth doing, but not a destination climb if considered as a single target.
The first pitch winds its way up a left-facing corner past several trees and ledges which turn out to be surprisingly easy to navigate. The chunky rock at the ledge above is a challenge to find the right combination of comfort and good gear from which to belay. This area is the route's biggest detractor, but could be skipped entirely with a 70m rope, and probably with a 60m if you are careful about drag and such.
The crux of the route comes on P2 when a bulge to the right takes away the good feet and the jams are off-fingers. These are tricky moves on less than obvious holds and insecure jams, but it is protected well on medium stoppers or small-to-medium cams.
From the West side of Jamcrack Spire, locate the highpoint of the South Summit. A wide, "inset" chimney splits this summit, with a broad dihedral leading up to a ledge just below that.
Fear Of Flying ascends the left-facing corner up to a band of broken rock below the slot, and then STAYS RIGHT to go up a fingers-thin hands crack that nearly splits the strong arete to the right. The route tops out just South of the South summit and a short 3rd class section puts you up on top of that.
A standard Flatirons rack (1 set stoppers, small tricams, and 1 set of cams) to 4" is best, but the #4 is optional. If intending to lead this as a single pitch, be sure to take lots of long slings to keep drag low and add a second set of cams from 0.75" to 3".
Seth pauses and contemplates the bulging crux on P...
Seth M. reaches for something (anything) at the cr...
|By Phil Lauffen|
From: The Bubble
Apr 18, 2011
I'm surprised this gets a star in Rossiter's book. It's a pretty lousy climb. The first pitch is lame. Then you have to go through some rotten rock for the first twenty feet of the second pitch. I did it slightly different than Tony shows in the pictures below, as I went up the dihedral in the left side of the picture, then hand traversed right out a rail to the crux crack.
The crux is three hard moves surrounded by 5.8 climbing or less. Worth getting on if you are in the area, but don't come out of your way for it.