Fear of Flying
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If you like sustained crimping and technical climbing on a vertical wall, you will love this route.
Start up the moderate 10+ or so, low angle face with a thought provoking move or so. The line trends to the right here before heading straight up once on the headwall. Rest up below the headwall on nice jugs, and get ready for the difficulties ahead. Continue up on a slightly wondering path utilizing crimps and sidepulls, on continuous climbing. Just before the anchors the angle backs off reducing the difficulty a bit.
I thought the crux was a deadpoint from a sidepull to the next clipping jug, definitely possible to get some air-time here.
Between "Blazing Saddles" and "Salty Dog" Two routes left of the obvious Tufa route "Conflict"
Guide says 12 Bolts to Anchors, I think there may have been a few less. The route is aptly named and is definitely possible to take some nice whippers.
By Curt MacNeill
From: Boulder, CO
Mar 13, 2012
This climb is one of the more consistent 12a's in all of Potrero. It climbs VERY similar to its neighbor Salty Dog with lots of thought provoking moves. Couldn't really tell where the crux is but there are some tricky sequences for sure for only being a 12a. There was alot of the same size crimps and the occasional slopey blocky sidepull. The route seems to be difficult to read for the onsight and doesn't have the most straight forward climbing. Hence, requiring you to think a little. Great fun!! Salty Dog to the right has a tattoo on the wall with it's name, this is the only way I knew what I was getting on on the Club Mex Wall given that all the climbs looks the same and are in the 12a-12c range. Look for the Salty Dog Logo in gold and blue and its one route to the left....