|East Face of Buzzard's Roost
This is one of the most infamous central Texas climbs, and rightly so. Fear of Flying is a continuous crack in a beautiful dihedral that widens up top. Most choose to lieback this beast, which makes the climbing easier, but adds an interesting challenge when placing big gear.
Once you locate the East Face of Buzzard's Roost, find the 80' most prominent dihedral rising above a large triangular block leaning against the wall.
Crack widens significantly near the top. There are no anchors. Bring several long slings or an anchor rope to build an adequate anchor.
Laybacking near the top of Fear of Flying Fear if Flying, FA James Crump, 5.10 R, 1977, Ench...
|By marc rosenthal|
From: San Antonio, TX
Aug 5, 2007
My brother and I were headed up to the base of this route in the early 80's. We arrived just in time to meet up with Chris Rowens who had just led it with some interesting gear for the wide sections . . . bongs and 2 x 4's!
From: Boulder, CO
May 24, 2009
So much fun!! If you are leading it, walking your gear is the key to this beast. If you are TR, lieback till the cows come home and dont stop moving for the fear of flying or a good flash pump.
|By jeremy long|
From: BOULDER CO
May 19, 2011
I MISS ENCHANTED ROCK! I love the cave on the main dome
|By Alex Quitiquit|
From: Salt Lake City
Sep 28, 2012
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Awesome route! A full blown lieback beast! But not actually too pumpy or hard due to the good feet (use the crack for some heel toe cams). I would bring 2 #4 camalots and 1 #5 camalot for the top. I didn't bring a five and if you were to blow the mantle up top you'd be in for a long flight, back to the last number 4. Walk the cams when you can and it protects well! Bring a number 2 and 3 for the first 20 feet.