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Main Cliff
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Fear of Abraham 

YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.6 French: 4c Ewbanks: 14 UIAA: V ZA: 12 British: S 4b [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 1,263
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 30, 2008

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Abe

Description 

Placing gear in schist is often tricky due to the strange grain of the rock. I recommend practicing placing gear at Rumney on routes like this because when you get out on granite or sandstone the gear seems so obvious and easy to place in comparison. It's also a great route to warm up on if you are getting on the routes in the 5.8 to 5.10 range that are found in the vicinity.

Climb the left facing left leaning crack/flake below the big ledge at Main Cliff's central area just right of the leaning boulder. After laying back and finger locking you will get to a few moderate face moves that lead to a nice stance and the 2 bolt anchor. The cool texture on the first half of the route make for really nice foot options.The gear can be tricky but solid.

Location 

Just right of the boulder leaning against the lower wall at the center of Main Cliff.

Protection 

Bring a very small rack, some nuts and finger to thin hand cams.


Photos of Fear of Abraham Slideshow Add Photo
matt on Abe
matt on Abe
took a peek at this yesterday at the crag and noticed there was no picture on MP. it's wet but there she is
took a peek at this yesterday at the crag and noti...
up top
up top
one more <br />
one more

Comments on Fear of Abraham Add Comment
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By M Sprague
Administrator
From: New England
Feb 14, 2012

I cleaned this, named and put an anchor on it in '99, but it is pretty likely others had climbed it long before.
By J Meagher
Nov 13, 2013
rating: 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b

This can be led on just a set of nuts, there is a very good #8 stopper placement about 9 up in the flake