Fear No Evil
||Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
|Consensus: || YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]|
|FA: ||Tony Bubb, Jerry Bargo, Jason Haas, 10/6/07|
|New Route: ||Yes|
|Season: ||Autumn, when not closed or snowed in|
|Page Views: ||90|
|Submitted By: ||Tony B on Oct 7, 2007|
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The fourth Wise Monkey? (See No Evil, Speak No Evil, Hear No Evil)
Approach via a brief scramble to reach a tree down perhaps 20 feet from the obvious handcrack and set a belay up. Lead up cracks and flakes to a small bulge, then stem and jam over the bulge into the main handcrack. Continue to a top-out on the ledge and belay from a cordalette on a large boulder back behind the edge.
To descend, first visit the summit, up and North, then climb back down, scramble around the summit to the north, then down zig-zagging on ledges and slabs to the North of the route to return to the route's base, and then to the ground.
Alternatively, plenty of trees are passed on the scramble down- set a sling and rap if preferred.
This route is on the far right end of the Devil's Horns, just as the wall gets tall. It can be spotted from below the cliff as a northwest facing wall with a steep 3" crack through it for a few body-lengths.
A standard rack of cams from small to 3.5" Crux is yellow Camalot.