1) Start left of the arching corner left of "Fantasia". Climb past Three bolts to a belay.
2) Climb up to a bolt and some weird mantle moves (5.9). Climb past a fixed pin to a two bolt anchor.
3) Climb up to a crack/corner with a pin, continue up to a belay.
4) Wander to the top.
I haven't done this route in over twenty years. The pins may be gone. Use your best judgement.
Pro to 2 in.
BETA PHOTO: "Fear No Evil".
Photo by Blitzo.
Mar 6, 2007
Another superb face climb, but don't get on it until you are tuned into leap runouts.
A bit harder than it's neighboring route. Do Fantasia first, if you are feeling froggy then try this one.
|By brian chandler|
From: Zephyr Cove, Nevada
Sep 11, 2009
It has been many, many years since I've climbed this route but, I remember it being a bold climb.
Aug 24, 2010
Another classic! Falling would not be in your best interest.
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 18, 2011
Better than Fantasia IMO. It's like Fantasia, accept without all that boring dike hikeing. Yeah, it's a dike hike too, but you'll be far form bored on this one.
Mar 3, 2012
I did this route back in 89. Is that dicey flake past the 2nd (?) bolt still there? I remember tossing a TCU behind it and just praying the whole thing didn't fall off when I mantled on it :). It's nice to see that the bolts have been changed out. Great lead, great route.
|By Nate varela|
From: gardnerville, nevada
Apr 14, 2012
this route is 5.9 R!!!
|By Kevin Hecka|
From: Speed of Light
Nov 21, 2012
I haven't done this route since 94 or so but it was by far one of the most memorable routes in my climbing history. It's all there, just keep your head on! :)
|By Kevin Boyko|
From: Boston, Ma
May 9, 2014
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a X
Fun route. But heads up: Defiantly R if not X in some sections. Not for the 5.9 (or maybe even 5.10) climber.
Difficult route finding as you see no bolts/pins, and you could go anywhere on the sills. Good luck, please don't fall!