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Fear No Evil 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 4 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Norm Booth and Jay Smith, 1979.
Page Views: 3,464
Submitted By: Blitzo on Sep 9, 2006
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1st pitch of "Fear No Evil".
Photo by Blitzo.
Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

1) Start left of the arching corner left of "Fantasia". Climb past Three bolts to a belay.
2) Climb up to a bolt and some weird mantle moves (5.9). Climb past a fixed pin to a two bolt anchor.
3) Climb up to a crack/corner with a pin, continue up to a belay.
4) Wander to the top.

I haven't done this route in over twenty years. The pins may be gone. Use your best judgement.


Protection 

Pro to 2 in.



Photos of Fear No Evil Slideshow Add Photo
"Fear No Evil". <br />Photo by Blitzo.
BETA PHOTO: "Fear No Evil".
Photo by Blitzo.
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By 426
Mar 6, 2007

Another superb face climb, but don't get on it until you are tuned into leap runouts.

A bit harder than it's neighboring route. Do Fantasia first, if you are feeling froggy then try this one.

By brian chandler
Sep 11, 2009

It has been many, many years since I've climbed this route but, I remember it being a bold climb.

By caughtinside
From: Oakland CA
Sep 24, 2009

Bolts replaced by Mucci September 2009:
www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=965840&tn=0

By Blitzo
Aug 24, 2010

Another classic! Falling would not be in your best interest.

By Salamanizer
Administrator
From: Vacaville Ca.
Jul 18, 2011

Better than Fantasia IMO. It's like Fantasia, accept without all that boring dike hikeing. Yeah, it's a dike hike too, but you'll be far form bored on this one.

By KevinHecka
Mar 3, 2012

I did this route back in 89. Is that dicey flake past the 2nd (?) bolt still there? I remember tossing a TCU behind it and just praying the whole thing didn't fall off when I mantled on it :). It's nice to see that the bolts have been changed out. Great lead, great route.

K.

By Nate varela
From: gardnerville, nevada
Apr 14, 2012

this route is 5.9 R!!!

By Kevin Hecka
From: Speed of Light
Nov 21, 2012

I haven't done this route since 94 or so but it was by far one of the most memorable routes in my climbing history. It's all there, just keep your head on! :)

K.