Fear No Evil 5.9
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| Type: | Trad, 4 pitches |
| Consensus: | 5.9 [details] |
| FA: | Norm Booth and Jay Smith, 1979. |
| Submitted By: | Blitzo on Sep 9, 2006 |
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1st pitch of "Fear No Evil". Photo by Blitzo.
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Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>
Peregrine Falcons nest seasonally at Lover's Leap. During the closure period, please avoid the areas displayed on the map posted below. A closure will be in place at the center of the wall starting April 1, 2012 to September 30, 2012. A detailed listing of closed routes and any changes in the information regarding the peregrine falcons will be posted on the Eldorado National Forest website www.fs.fed.us/r5/eldorado. If you require addition information contact Susan Yasuda, District Wildlife Biologist on the Placerville Ranger District at 530-647-5311. Here's a map:
| 2009 Closure Map Submitted By: Amy Ansari on Jun 15, 2009
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This information is a public crowdsourcing effort between the Access Fund,
and Mountain Project. You should confirm closures, restrictions, and/or related dates.
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Keeping climbing areas open and conserving the climbing environment
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Description 1) Start left of the arching corner left of "Fantasia". Climb past Three bolts to a belay. 2) Climb up to a bolt and some weird mantle moves (5.9). Climb past a fixed pin to a two bolt anchor. 3) Climb up to a crack/corner with a pin, continue up to a belay. 4) Wander to the top. I haven't done this route in over twenty years. The pins may be gone. Use your best judgement.
Protection Pro to 2 in.
BETA PHOTO: "Fear No Evil". Photo by Blitzo.
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By 426 Mar 6, 2007
| Another superb face climb, but don't get on it until you are tuned into leap runouts. A bit harder than it's neighboring route. Do Fantasia first, if you are feeling froggy then try this one. |
By brian chandler Sep 11, 2009
| It has been many, many years since I've climbed this route but, I remember it being a bold climb. |
By Blitzo Aug 24, 2010
| Another classic! Falling would not be in your best interest. |
By Salamanizer Administrator From: Vacaville Ca. Jul 18, 2011
| Better than Fantasia IMO. It's like Fantasia, accept without all that boring dike hikeing. Yeah, it's a dike hike too, but you'll be far form bored on this one. |
By KevinHecka Mar 3, 2012
| I did this route back in 89. Is that dicey flake past the 2nd (?) bolt still there? I remember tossing a TCU behind it and just praying the whole thing didn't fall off when I mantled on it :). It's nice to see that the bolts have been changed out. Great lead, great route. K. |
By Nate varela From: gardnerville, nevada Apr 14, 2012
| this route is 5.9 R!!! |
By Kevin Hecka From: Speed of Light Nov 21, 2012
| I haven't done this route since 94 or so but it was by far one of the most memorable routes in my climbing history. It's all there, just keep your head on! :) K. |
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