Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Holds Up Bluff North
Select Route:
Beer and Smear T,TR 
Block Dance T 
Cripple Crack T 
Fantasy Land T,S,TR 
Fear and Smear T,TR 
Seaweed Patch T,S,TR 

Fear and Smear 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, TR, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 586
Submitted By: Kurt Johnson on Apr 6, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (3)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]

Description 

A short but fun route that can be lead on gear (sketchy) but is usually done on toprope after rapping off the nearby route Cripple Crack.

There's a discontinuous thin crack but it's mainly a face climb to a horizontal crack where you hand-traverse left, pull through a small "roof", then a few more crimpers to the 2 bolt anchor.

Location 

On the right-hand portion of Hold Up Bluffs North, around the corner on the small face that faces south.

Protection 

Small gear or toprope


Comments on Fear and Smear Add Comment
Show which comments
By gregybn
Apr 8, 2008

Yeah... short & fun!
But, I seem to remember a couple bomber nut placements in the thin vertical crack?
BTW... the gully just to the right - before Cripple Crack - is about a 5.0 scramble (OK, maybe 4th class?) up to the anchors... to set top-ropes for any climbs on the first level of H.U.B. North.