Fear and Smear
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A short but fun route that can be lead on gear (sketchy) but is usually done on toprope after rapping off the nearby route Cripple Crack.
There's a discontinuous thin crack but it's mainly a face climb to a horizontal crack where you hand-traverse left, pull through a small "roof", then a few more crimpers to the 2 bolt anchor.
On the right-hand portion of Hold Up Bluffs North, around the corner on the small face that faces south.
Small gear or toprope
|Comments on Fear and Smear
Apr 8, 2008
Yeah... short & fun!
But, I seem to remember a couple bomber nut placements in the thin vertical crack?
BTW... the gully just to the right - before Cripple Crack - is about a 5.0 scramble (OK, maybe 4th class?) up to the anchors... to set top-ropes for any climbs on the first level of H.U.B. North.