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 ADVANCED
Fall Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.11 Crack T 
Clam Shell TR 
Cold Finger S 
Colonial Rule T 
Drop Zone S,TR 
E.O. Friction S 
E.O. Lieback T 
Easy Overhang Traverse T 
Fall Wall (*the route) T,S 
Fear and Loathing T 
Guilty Fingers S,TR 
Gunga Din S 
Hole T 
Mickey Mantle S 
Neon Madman T 
Spider God T,S 
Upper Fall Wall Route T 

Fear and Loathing 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Layne Kopischka, et. al. 1975
Season: Free of ice and snow.
Page Views: 172
Submitted By: Rodger Raubach on Jul 9, 2012

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Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

This is a somewhat contrived route that squeezes between Lower Fall Wall and 5.11 Crack. It begins by climbing 5.11 Crack to the first bolt and then traverses left to another bolt (crux). Head up to a third bolt, a short headwall and right-facing dihedral. Follow this dihedral to the Fall Wall belay ledge. Rappel.

Even though I've listed this at 5.9+, be aware that this is a Vedauwoo "old school" rating; a more modern rating would probably be 5.10a.

Location 

Use the same start as 5.11 Crack, atop the clamshell boulder.

Protection 

Quick draws and a light rack with smaller pieces.


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