Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Wall of Confusion
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
American Sportsman S 
Big Damage S 
Desert Pickle S 
Fear and Loathing, III S 
Makulu S 
Promises in the Dark S 
Resin Rose T 
Runaway, The S 
Sudden Impact S 
Super Guide S 

Fear and Loathing, III 

YDS: 5.12- French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Bill Boyle and Boone Speed, 1988
Page Views: 8,621
Submitted By: Aimee Rose on Mar 23, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (90)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Nick moving up Fear and Loathing

Description 

Overhanging jugs for 6 bolts to a powerful crimpy roof pull to a balancy finish. A variation to the right exists after the 6th bolt, but it doesn't look as nice as going straight up.


Location 

7th from the left.


Protection 

8 bolts to chains.



Photos of Fear and Loathing, III Slideshow Add Photo
Fear and Loathing
Fear and Loathing
Fear and Loathing
Fear and Loathing
Shooting for the jug after the crux clip
Shooting for the jug after the crux clip
J. Steck, finding the hard way to do the crux.
J. Steck, finding the hard way to do the crux.
Moving into the crux moves- oh so pumped!
BETA PHOTO: Moving into the crux moves- oh so pumped!
The crimpy (endurance) crux at the top of F&L.
The crimpy (endurance) crux at the top of F&L.
Clipping before the crux sequence.
Clipping before the crux sequence.
Fear...
Fear...
Greg at the start
Greg at the start
Taking a Whipper on Fear and Loathing
Taking a Whipper on Fear and Loathing
Greg taking a well needed break
Greg taking a well needed break
The White Rastafarian on Fear and Loathing, photo: Bob Horan Collection
The White Rastafarian on Fear and Loathing, photo:...
Pumper
Pumper
looking for a rest of F&L  <br />Photo by: Bernard Lam
looking for a rest of F&L
Photo by: Bernard Lam
Comments on Fear and Loathing, III Add Comment
Show which comments
By 426
Mar 19, 2007

Sick fun but watch the belay down low...great for apes.

By Matt McMurray
From: Castle Rock, CO
Apr 17, 2007
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Climbed at WOC last weekend. Would whoever is putting the retarded tick arrows on F&L please move... or at least tick holds that you actually need to use on the route!?! IDIOTS!

By Wolfgang Braun
From: Beavercreek, Oregon
Oct 13, 2008
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I love this route. Fun, steep, and big holds. There are some unreasonable tick marks on this route.

By Steven Lucarelli
From: Moab, UT
Jan 5, 2009
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

I went right at the 6th bolt and had to do a pretty hard undercling move that felt like the crux. I did see two ticked holds going straight up though.

By hEatchel
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Mar 22, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

AMAZING climbing! def 12a in my book

By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Mar 26, 2009

ticking is not to be tolerated on anything below 13. Especially on a route as chalked and juggy as this precious gem.

By John Wilder
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jan 30, 2011
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

On 1/29/11 the LVCLC with support from the ASCA replaced the anchors on this route with 1/2 x 5" SS 5-piece bolts and equipped them with mussy hooks.

Two sets of old anchors were chopped and patched.

By Ben Griffin
From: Durango, CO
Jan 23, 2013
rating: 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Using the slanted rock behind the route. You can pre-hang draws all the way to the 6th or 7th bolt with a cheater stick. Oh yeah, will yall calm down about the damn tick marks! Cry babies.

By Paul K.
From: West Fargo, ND
Mar 20, 2013

I really liked this route, but I wasn't ready for the overhang. I made it through the crux, but between bad beta and my lack of overhang climbing I was too tired to finish. Especially when you finally make it throug the crux, then fall and have to redo it again. As far as ticks go, don't use them if you don't like them. Figure it out for yourself. I'm almost positive I did it different then most. There is a point where you can do a big move/dyno, but I opted for a more static way, which I believe is where the ticks are at.

By skinny legs and all
From: Elizabethtown, Pennsylvania
Apr 8, 2013

John Bachar soloed this in the early 90's, probably many times. This was at least the third route in Vegas to be named "Fear and Loathing".