Valerie Bachinsky climbing Fawn Crack 5.7(+), New ...
Climb a small corner to a stance beneath an right rising finger crack. Make a couple strenous and painful moves to pull a small overhang and gain the crack (crux). Continue up the crack to friction climbing protected with bolts to fixed anchors.
Five feet up and right of Ten Point Buck at a small right arching, right facing corner topped with a crack in a slight overhang.
Protect the finger crack with a couple pieces and continue on clipping bolts.
By Kevin Heckeler From: Upstate New York May 28, 2012 rating: 5.8-5b16VI-14VS 4c
Looks better than it is.
**Update** On a return visit, I think this might be pushing 5.8 for the one or two crux moves through the roof. Highly protectible, although I've only top roped it after someone led the easier 5.6 to the left...
My first mock trad lead. As stated very 'G'. Took stoppers, hexes, tricams of various sizes. I sewed it up and including bolts had 9 pieces in. While there is 1-2ish hard moves it did not feel very challenging. 5.7+ seems appropriate although I am 6'-2" which may contribute to my opinion. Gaining the roof was not the crux, but the move after the roof/ trying to make a placement at this point. Low rating because if you can make the lower moves/crux the upper climbing will be very very easy.